NurdWand (Nerd Wall)

NurdWand is a super fun and easy trad adventure with good but spaced traditional protection. All belays are bolted and have good stances with rings for rappelling. Most of the pitches do not feature distinct cruxes but are moderate with spaced pro as the cracks open intermittently. A good sense of how to manage your protection over a varied pitch is useful. North Facing so cool and snow at the base in spring, oblique sun in summer. Summit elevation is ~7600' with a distinct alpine character to the route and location.

A rare North Tahoe and north facing multi-pitch trad adventure on beautiful stone with an epic summit view of the entire Northern Sierra that could become a local classic for those first getting into longer climbs and placing their own gear.

1. Seasonal snow at base. Followed furrowed (5.6) cracks left of a brown corner to bolted belay 30m. 

2. Straight up to next bolted anchor 25m (5.6). Easily linked with pitch one.

3. Up to the left of a black streak then traverse easy ground to the east (climber's left) to reach next bolted anchor 35m (5.6).

4. Start in a small left facing corner to the left of the belay then straight up discontinuous cracks and ledges to a bolted anchor 37m (5.6) just short of Liger ledge. Easy 4th class escape to the west at the top of this pitch. 

Move belay 3rd Class across the large and flat "White Liger Ledge" (seasonal snow) to bolts. Careful as there is plenty of loose debris on der Liger ledges.

5. Above the bolted anchor follow thin cracks to a short ramp traversing left under a bulge (bolt) then up to a steep bulge (bolt) and crux mantle (5.7) to gain easy ground to the summit bolts on a large block above a big ledge (35m). A huge loose block guards an easy chimney to the left of the mantle but must be avoided until it gets trundled. Seriously, don't fuck with this refrigerator sized death block as it is right above the belay and will make tomato paste out of your belayer.

The descent is a simple walk on the trail down from the summit along the top of the ridge to the parking area.

If you choose to rappel the route beware that the rappel from the top of the 4th is 37m if using one 70m rope (you must use the lower anchor at the top of the 4th not the one at the base of the 5th). Knot your rope and rope stretch should (?!) get you to the 3rd anchor. Otherwise only a single 70m rope needed for the route and rappelling the route if required.

Approach from Grouse Ridge Road (dirt) which can be found ~6 miles from Hwy 20 along the Bowman Lake Road. Drive another ~6 miles east along this rocky but good road to where parking before the Grouse Ridge campground can be found at the ridge crest. Descend the steep gully between Grouse Tor (crag to the east of Grouse Ridge Lookout) and smaller crags to the north at a large solo pine down the hill a bit. The route starts from the base (seasonal snowfield) ascending furrowed cracks left of a corner formed by brown stone.

Standard Trad rack with wireds and doubles on small cams to 3" plus plenty of slings and a lead nut tool to clean out the occasional placement. Bolted belays. Only a single 70m rope required.