Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: S. Ayers et al?
Page Views: 671 total · 21/month
Shared By: Seth Maciejowski on Nov 24, 2021
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Description Suggest change

A great route for hot and sunny days due to it's northeast facing aspect and awesome 2nd pitch.  This is a great moderate line that brings you to the summit of Hootgoat Mountain and deserves more attention.

P1. 5.8 180'.  On the bottom left margin of the the northeast shoulder of Hootgoat, find a bolt line heading to a 4 inch crack.  Follow the bolt line crossing the crack on the way and trend close to the left margin of the buttress.  Climb past some prominent chickenheads to a stegosaurus fin like dike.  Follow the dike up to a bolt anchor.  Great pitch!

P2. 5.6 120' An amazingly unique pitch at the grade.  Follow twin stegosaurus fin like dikes up and around the shoulder to the left. Mostly very easy climbing with an occasional bolt to keep it safe.  Belay at a small tree or above the tree at a 3" crack.

P3. 3rd class 200' scramble up and left around some boulders and past some trees.  Move back right and up easy slabs to the end of a wide chimney on the left edge of the buttress.  Belay in the chimney

P4. 5.8 stem up the chimney and reach across to clip the first bolt.  A stout boulder problem gets you across the chimney and into a crack above the bolt.  Continue up the crack to friction and the summit.  

Rappel off bolt anchor to the east over a huge flake 100' to the pass between Muttonhead and Hootgoat.  Take care in reaching the bolt anchor from above.  

Location Suggest change

Get to the Hootgoat/Muttonhead saddle via the Sheepshead and Muttonhead descent and descend the gully to the northeast for 10-15 minutes to reach the toe of the northeast buttress of Hootgoat.

Protection Suggest change

Gear to 3"/bolts.

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