Type: Boulder, 12 ft (4 m)
GPS: 43.98909, -71.50109
FA: Lee Hansche 2021
Page Views: 422 total · 7/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Nov 4, 2021
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

To some climbers. At least one named Jay, a boulder like this holds no seductive power. To others it is the stuff of dreamy-nightmares. When I first saw this crack I was enamored with it. I was further interested because I was told that the roof off-width had yet to be climbed. Of course one can never be sure so correct me if I am wrong. It does look like a variation is possible which more likely have been done, using the slab for feet and making it a "normal climb" haha.

Start as far back in the cave as you can. Stack your hands in the crack and flip upside down. Jam feet deep in the crack, shuffle your hand and lurch your way to the lip of the roof. Wide hand and fists at the edge of the roof give brief security before climbing the more vertical finish. Layback, jam and again stuff your leg in the OW until you can stand on top and scamper down. 

I am still scratch and bruised and feeling like I was beaten with a bat from my 4 or 5 tries on this thing before sending. for best results: Jeans, flannel shirt, taped ankles and tape gloves or jammies. 

You will either be in heaven or hell when you are on this one... It says a lot about a person. 

Location Suggest change

As you get quite close hiking into Goodrich Rock this boulder is up off the trail about 20 feet in a cluster of larger boulders. You should be able to see part of the crack as you look up and to your right. 

Protection Suggest change

A few pads and a spotter

Photos

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