Off-width Their Heads!
V6 YDS 7A Font
| Type: | Boulder, 12 ft (4 m) |
| GPS: | 43.98909, -71.50109 |
| FA: | Lee Hansche 2021 |
| Page Views: | 422 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Nov 4, 2021 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
To some climbers. At least one named Jay, a boulder like this holds no seductive power. To others it is the stuff of dreamy-nightmares. When I first saw this crack I was enamored with it. I was further interested because I was told that the roof off-width had yet to be climbed. Of course one can never be sure so correct me if I am wrong. It does look like a variation is possible which more likely have been done, using the slab for feet and making it a "normal climb" haha.
Start as far back in the cave as you can. Stack your hands in the crack and flip upside down. Jam feet deep in the crack, shuffle your hand and lurch your way to the lip of the roof. Wide hand and fists at the edge of the roof give brief security before climbing the more vertical finish. Layback, jam and again stuff your leg in the OW until you can stand on top and scamper down.
I am still scratch and bruised and feeling like I was beaten with a bat from my 4 or 5 tries on this thing before sending. for best results: Jeans, flannel shirt, taped ankles and tape gloves or jammies.
You will either be in heaven or hell when you are on this one... It says a lot about a person.



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