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Routes in Main Crag
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2x4 Jenga T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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A Pint of Stout T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Auspicious Sunrise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Autumn Gold T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Batteries Not Included S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bring Your Brass T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Cam-ouflage T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Conundrum (Pending FA Info) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crystal Gully T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Delicacy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Dragon Slayer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Enigma (pending FA info) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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In Search of My Rose T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Jenga T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Knob Jollies T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Knob Walk S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Levitation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Mystery (pending FA info) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Plates of Gold T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Possibilities T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Quitting Time S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Sandcastle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Servile Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shorty's Dilemma S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Simply Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Spare Rib S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Springtime T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Squat Tower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Static Undercling T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Swingtime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Totem Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trycams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 40.43411, -105.38742 |
| FA: | T. Bubb and B. Young, October, 2021 |
| Page Views: | 439 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 24, 2021 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
"A larger version of the same thing," 2x4 Jenga starts just left of Jenga in the yawning offwidth crack. After an awkward start to get established in the crack, place a very large cam up inside it, and battle your way slowly through the physical crux of the route. Pass the wide section, and continue on lower angle rock to the #3/#4 Camalot fist crack above, now just left of where Jenga merges in from the right side. Pull up onto the leaning block near the top of the tower, and clip the bolt on the tower's arete as for Jenga. Finish to that route's anchors.
Just over 1/2 of the total climbing is new territory, but the unique nature of that independent bottom section and its hard-fought progress make it feel like an entirely different climb, and indeed, the part you remember when you are finished with it is.
Protection
A rack from 1" to very wide cams. A #6 Camalot was overhead protection at the crux of the route, but a #5 Camalot could also be used slightly lower down. The rack in total should include an assortment of cams from 1"-wide and a handful of slings. Up top, you will clip the bolt on the arete as for Jenga, then clip the anchors to lower.
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