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Routes in Main Crag

A Pint of Stout T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Auspicious Sunrise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Autumn Gold T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Batteries Not Included S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bring Your Brass T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cam-ouflage T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conundrum (Pending FA Info) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crystal Gully T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Delicacy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dragon Slayer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Enigma (pending FA info) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jenga T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Knob Jollies T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Knob Walk S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Levitation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Mystery (pending FA info) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Plates of Gold T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Possibilities T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Quitting Time S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Servile Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shorty's Dilemma S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Simply Slab T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Spare Rib S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Springtime T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Squat Tower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Static Undercling T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Swingtime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Totem Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trycams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: K Duncan, D Humphrey 2014
Page Views: 417 total · 10/month
Shared By: Ken Duncan on Oct 26, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a great route with sustained and interesting climbing.

P1) 5.11+ (height-dependent). Climb the slab up left along a crack to the first bolt, then go up to the intermediate rap anchors. Follow the line of bolts to the bulging crux. Spring up the crux (height-dependent 5.9-5.11+, but easily aided), then go left and up to the anchors.

  • ***A 60 METER ROPE WILL NOT REACH THE SLAB WHEN RAPPELLING. YOU NEED TO USE THE INTERMEDIATE ANCHORS, A 70 METER DOES MAKE IT.*** From the intermediate anchors, rap to the Levitation anchors and then to the ground. (See photos.)

Location

See photo for route and approaches.

Approaches:
1) Walk left around the west end of Main Crag. Angle up and right in a trough then scramble behind Totem Tower and across to the base of the route.
2) Climb Levitation or one of the other central slab routes, then scramble up to the base of the route.
3) Scramble from the anchors atop Dragon Slayer to those on top of Springtime.

Protection

Eight bolts and 0.75 to 2" cams for the initial crack.

Photos

Nate A
Estes Park, CO
Nate A   Estes Park, CO
This route is missing the 3rd bolt above the intermediate anchor. Found the hole but no bolt. Makes for a spicy couple of moves. Dec 29, 2017

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