Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade II
GPS: 37.20613, -118.70253
FA: unknown
Page Views: 532 total · 10/month
Shared By: Steve McGee on Oct 15, 2021 · Updates
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

I climbed it with Tomas Navratil, a Rhodes scholar from Czech Republic on our Outward Bound course.

Knife edge!  Start from the north (Alpine Col). Our route climbed from the east along the ridge to “Goethe Norte” (John Jacobs et al). Tomas and I left the rest of the students and continued along the crest of the knife edge, without bypassing any high points, to the summit. Amazing route. 

Apparently it is common for mountaineers to bypass the 5th class:
From Alpine Col, follow the ridge up towards the 13,000’+ subpeak that lies northeast of Mount Goethe. From there, continue along the ridge, dropping down to the south side where necessary to avoid the tricky spots. There are some pinnacles en route that can be skirted on the left. Descend the way you came, or via the easier SE slopes.

Stay on the crest of the ridge and it's knife-edge, 5.4 with great exposure. Feels solid.

Approach

From Humphrey's Basin or Darwin. 

Protection Suggest change

Bring an alpine rack

Photos

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