All Locations > Colorado > S Platte > Staunton SP > Old Mill Area > Roughneck Area > Shadetree Ledge

Yardbird

Name: Yardbird
Rating: 3.0

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in Shadetree Ledge

L › R R › L A › Z

	Chicken Little T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Grease Monkey T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Services Rendered S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Shadetree Mechanic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Unnamed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Yardbird S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

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Type:	Sport, 120 ft (36 m)
GPS:	39.52278, -105.39124
FA:	NB (rope-solo)
Page Views:	593 total · 11/month
Shared By:	nbrown on Aug 25, 2021
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.

- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall

Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.

Seasonal Falcon closures in effect from March 15 - July 31. - Lion's Head (not pictured). - Roughneck Area. There are no closures at Staunton Rocks.

Description

This is a long (and contrived, according to Larry Lucas) pitch that features lots of chickenheads, especially high up on the headwall. Although there are a few bomber gear placements down low, this line was bolted to be entirely sport and to be reasonably protected for the grade (hence the name). It has lots of bolts -- approximately 15 or 16 to eliminate potential ledgefalls.

A funky start leads to a short, moderate section which then gains a steep crack/seam. Crank through here (crux?), then make the diagonal traverse up and left to the headwall. Climb the headwall on great chickenheads to an anchor just shy of the top (unfortunately the rock at the top was no good for bolts). The climb is longer than it is tall due to its diagonal nature.

Note: a 70 meter rope will get you down, just watch your ends. Or belay up top then rap to the intermediate anchor down and right on Chicken Little.