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Routes in The Cirque of the Climbables
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Corner Route T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Deep Voodoo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 |
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Epitaph T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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For Desert Rats Only T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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I Dream of Jeannie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A2 |
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Playing Hooky 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b C2 |
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| Type: | Trad, 375 ft (114 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 38.52926, -109.59424 |
| FA: | Dean Potter and Steph Davis, 2003 |
| Page Views: | 1,367 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Erik N on Apr 2, 2021 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
This is the free version of Playing Hooky with an additional challenge: no hanging belays.
Dean And Steph originally freed Playing Hooky in 2001 using the aid line belays. Two years later they freed it again, linking pitches 2 and 3 with a 70 meter rope to avoid a hanging belay.
P1: 5.10+.
P2: 5.13. Climb to and up the dihedral.
P3: 5.12-. Loose and runout. Open book to the summit.
Descent: 3 options. 1)Walk down the trail (best). 2) Rap. 3) BASE jump.
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