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Routes in The Cirque of the Climbables (aka The Tombstone)

Corner Route T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Deep Voodoo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
For Desert Rats Only T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
I Dream of Jeannie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A2
Playing Hooky 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b C2
Type: Trad, Aid, 380 ft, 4 pitches, Grade V
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,042 total, 26/month
Shared By: Jay 1975 on Oct 31, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

side of first tombstone.

I'm sure i might not be the only one, but i have done this route clean at C2 in November 2001.Recently I have seen chalk and tick marks on the aid pitch...sick!

Protection

Rack: 3 sets nuts/RPs, 1 set cams to #3, 3 sets TCUs...or throw out computer then open up the book and read the rack.

Photos

nicolas blair
Denver, CO
nicolas blair   Denver, CO
What is a good guide book for aid in Moab? Mar 17, 2017
Stiles
the Mountains
Stiles   the Mountains
Crux pitch is looong and uniformly small gear, soaked up #5 HB offset brassies. Very scarred. No C2 about it, pretty stiff, thought we. Big fall potential, but steep and clean. Depends on the size of your rack, l reckon. No fixed KBs as mentioned Oct 14, 2013
Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
  5.8 C3-
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
  5.8 C3-
All of the webbing on the anchors is in need of repair. THe old Fixed Knife Blades are time bombs. Combine pitches 1-2. One rope rap from the last pitch to the third and then a rap barely gets you to the top of pitch one. Lots of nuts! Someone should finish the route and do a bolt ladder to the top. It is a little anticlimactic to see the top thirty feet from you but the route ends. Nov 22, 2008
Old Skool  
 
C3/C3+ When I Solo'd it clean in '99 and again when I returned to finish fixing up all the anchor's in '00. Jimmy Dunn and Dean Potter where still working on FFA of "Play'n Hooky" when I did my last trip. Afterwards, Dean asked me about the pro etc and at what Free Rating would it go at... I guessed in the .13's. He said he may give it a go. May 4, 2008
Luke Malatesta
Moab Utah
Luke Malatesta   Moab Utah
According to the ASCA's website, the route went clean in 1999 @ C3+ during an aid solo ( safeclimbing.org/areas/utah…).
An amazing route....I havent done it yet but find it to look a bit more hard than c2. Aug 3, 2007