PRINT: Rock Climb Epitaph, Southeast Utah

Epitaph

5.13, Trad, 375 ft (114 m), 3 pitches,

Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: Dean Potter and Steph Davis, 2003
Utah > Southeast Utah > Grand County > Kane Springs Ca… > Cirque of the Climbables

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas. Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.

Description

This is the free version of Playing Hooky with an additional challenge: no hanging belays.

Dean And Steph originally freed Playing Hooky in 2001 using the aid line belays. Two years later they freed it again, linking pitches 2 and 3 with a 70 meter rope to avoid a hanging belay.

P1: 5.10+.

P2: 5.13. Climb to and up the dihedral.

P3: 5.12-. Loose and runout. Open book to the summit.

Descent: 3 options. 1)Walk down the trail (best). 2) Rap. 3) BASE jump.

Location

The clear crack up the center of the Tombstone. See Playing Hooky.

Protection

Desert rack. Extra small pieces for the dihedral. 70 meter rope for full value.