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Routes in The Cirque of the Climbables (aka The Tombstone)

Corner Route T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Deep Voodoo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
For Desert Rats Only T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
I Dream of Jeannie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A2
Playing Hooky 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2
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Type: Trad, Aid, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,336 total · 10/month
Shared By: Orphaned on May 25, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

p1, start in right facing shallow corner and nail kb's up to the rotten band. A bigger poor pin (2") is needed to step up to the free section and past a huge hollow flake. A hook move or two puts you more toward the center of wall and past a couple drilled angles. continue up to the left crack system until you can pendgy to the hanging belay (140').
p2, swing to right system and hook moves to kb placments. Gain the right crack and continue to hanging belay (120')
p3, work left to sandy crack up to drilled angle. one more angle leads to the dead end. A 12' diameter hollow plate keeps upward ascent. If you can get past this, 60' of KB's exist above the plate in what appears to be good rock.

hole count p1 = 2, p2 = 0, p3 = 2, belays 5, total = 9

Location

left tombstone, Kane Creek

Protection

standard desert rack, pins to 2"

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