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Routes in The Cirque of the Climbables
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Corner Route T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Deep Voodoo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 |
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Epitaph T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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For Desert Rats Only T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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I Dream of Jeannie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A2 |
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Playing Hooky 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C2 |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Rick Donnelly, Scott DeCapio 5/1995 |
| Page Views: | 2,213 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned on May 25, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
p1, start in right facing shallow corner and nail kb's up to the rotten band. A bigger poor pin (2") is needed to step up to the free section and past a huge hollow flake. A hook move or two puts you more toward the center of wall and past a couple drilled angles. continue up to the left crack system until you can pendgy to the hanging belay (140').
p2, swing to right system and hook moves to kb placments. Gain the right crack and continue to hanging belay (120')
p3, work left to sandy crack up to drilled angle. one more angle leads to the dead end. A 12' diameter hollow plate keeps upward ascent. If you can get past this, 60' of KB's exist above the plate in what appears to be good rock.
hole count p1 = 2, p2 = 0, p3 = 2, belays 5, total = 9
p2, swing to right system and hook moves to kb placments. Gain the right crack and continue to hanging belay (120')
p3, work left to sandy crack up to drilled angle. one more angle leads to the dead end. A 12' diameter hollow plate keeps upward ascent. If you can get past this, 60' of KB's exist above the plate in what appears to be good rock.
hole count p1 = 2, p2 = 0, p3 = 2, belays 5, total = 9
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