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> Squamish
> Smoke Bluffs
> Octopus' Garden
Generation X
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
Routes in Octopus' Garden
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Alan's Corner T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Call Any Vegetable T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Edible Panties T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Electric Ball T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Fist Full of Yoghurt T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Generation X T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Harry's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Leonissisation S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Monkey Coefficient T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Octopus' Garden in the Shade T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pipe Dream T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Root Canal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Solstice Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unearthly Delights T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Up 2u T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 49.70827, -123.13681 |
| FA: | Colin Moorhead, Kris Wild. Mar 2021 |
| Page Views: | 639 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Colin Moorhead on Mar 16, 2021 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Climb up the leaning hand, and finger crack. As the crack peters out difficult face climbing leads past 4 bolts. There are several cruxes featuring desperate crystal pinching, crimping in tiny solution pockets, and difficult high steps. The penultimate crux is stepping across to regain a final crack and easier slab move to the arete and the anchor.
Big thanks to everyone who gets stoked on our new climbs and continue to encourage us. Much gratitude those who have contributed some of their hard earned dollars to the Sea to Sky Route Development gofundme campaign. Funds go directly to high quality bolts and anchors used on routes such as this.
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