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Routes in Octopus Garden

Call Any Vegetable T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edible Panties T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Electric Ball T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Fist Full of Yoghurt T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Harry's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Leonissisation S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey Coefficient T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Octopus Garden in the Shade T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pipe Dream T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Root Canal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unearthly Delights T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: S. Young, D. Martin
Page Views: 1,606 total, 18/month
Shared By: John Wilder on Jul 30, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details

Description

A beautiful route with several cruxes and good gear. Be bold on this one, though, as one of the lower cruxes has groundfall potential and the upper one has big air potential.

This route is easily top roped by climbing any of the routes to the left and moving the rope to the anchors on top of this route.

Location

The obvious thin crack system on the right hand side of the wall.

Protection

thin gear to #2 camalot

Photos

Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
 
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
 
Nice, sustained climbing. Highly recommend a #3 C4 for the low crux.

I was expecting to feel a lot less secure and sketched out placing the second piece after the bottom crux, but you can get a really secure right foot jam in the flaring feature right above the #3 C4. I'm 6' tall and felt quite comfortable stretching out and placing a .4 Camalot and clipping. Technically when that rope is paid out when clipping there is groundfall potential, but just being above your #3 C4 is a safe place to be and quite secure - you can chill, place your piece, chalk and wait until you feel comfortable before you pay out that rope.

The twin cracks above keep you honest, so don't assume your work is over when you've pulled the crux. Technical, funky bottoming finger jams and you can really only place gear in particular places that you often want for your fingers and toes.

Reading the old McLane guidebooks, the line originally finished at the second overlap (after the twin cracks), from which you would build a gear belay and then I have no idea. The direct 10b slab finish was done in the late 90s, and climbs boldly directly above the twin cracks without protection. Alternate finish now seems to climb to the left, the right-most crack that tops out to the left of the twin cracks. Aug 12, 2016
Raddam6
Salt Lake
Raddam6   Salt Lake
Great climb. Don't be a pussy, do the direct finish its classic. This pitch was soft for the grade, I thought. Sep 5, 2015
Lina Baker  
 
Both technical and somewhat burly--this climb packs a great punch! Great benchmark climb for how you progress over the season! Jun 1, 2015
Hamik Mukelyan
San Francisco, CA
Hamik Mukelyan   San Francisco, CA
With an overcammed BD blue or slightly undercammed yellow and a really good belay--a running backward at full throttle if you peel kind of belay--you might stay off the deck if you blow it at the lower crux. If you don't feel solid just downclimb--the gear and fall would be safe at that point. Sep 1, 2013