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Routes in Hogum Fork
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Hogum Z Center WI3- |
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Hogum Z Left WI3- |
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Hogum Z Right WI3+ |
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Hogum's Heroes T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Super Troopers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thunderbolt Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Y Ice WI4+ R |
| Type: | Ice, Alpine, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.53847, -111.72186 |
| FA: | Brian Cabe & Matt Scullion 05 February 2011 |
| Page Views: | 620 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Brian in SLC on Jan 30, 2021 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Ephemeral ice route coming in and going out on the whims of the canyon snow and temperature conditions.
Best done in two pitches. Start on a steep but short curtain at the base then a long snow ramp finish to a belay under the last steep ice.
Climb a second pitch hopefully (!) on a solid pillar either on the right or left. Right hand option may have better protection in the available rock.
Finish on a slab of ice up to an accessible bush/tree anchor option.
Likely fairly head's up climbing with big penalty points for blowing it. Pillars can be creaky or worse and being prepared to bail off would be prudent.
Proceed with caution.
Location
Located in the cliffs left of and under the Y Couloir.
Under the first big bend of the Y Couloir, locate a grove of green pine trees. The route is directly below.
Well to the climber's right of the right most "Z gully" climb.
Approach as for the Z gullies and the Y Couloir. In deep snow, skis or snowshoes helpful.
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