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Routes in Hogum Fork
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Hogum Z Center WI3- |
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Hogum Z Left WI3- |
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Hogum Z Right WI3+ |
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Hogum's Heroes T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Super Troopers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thunderbolt Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Y Ice WI4+ R |
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| Type: | Ice, Alpine, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Probably the Reverend. 70's. |
| Page Views: | 847 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Brian in SLC on Apr 15, 2020 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Thin start leads to a ramp which trends up left with a cleft of rock above and short wall to the right.
Past the neck down, as the climb develops and becomes more straight up (low angle) the ice gets more substantial.
Finish in a bowl then a bit more ice as the flow goes into the trees.
Rappel with hopefully a long set of ropes from trees and v-thread anchors.
Good early season romp especially if there's substantial ice with no snow.
Once the snow fills in, the ice goes bye bye as it gets buried in even a low snow pack.
Past the neck down, as the climb develops and becomes more straight up (low angle) the ice gets more substantial.
Finish in a bowl then a bit more ice as the flow goes into the trees.
Rappel with hopefully a long set of ropes from trees and v-thread anchors.
Good early season romp especially if there's substantial ice with no snow.
Once the snow fills in, the ice goes bye bye as it gets buried in even a low snow pack.
Location
The furthest left of the three long and usually prominent early season Z gullies.
Left of the Y coulior.
Bottom of the Hogum Fork canyon exit.
Approach from the standard parking lot for the Y couloir. Cross the creek and head up the kinda bushy and talus slopes below the center Z gully. Cut over to the left to the route.
Left of the Y coulior.
Bottom of the Hogum Fork canyon exit.
Approach from the standard parking lot for the Y couloir. Cross the creek and head up the kinda bushy and talus slopes below the center Z gully. Cut over to the left to the route.
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