Type: Trad, Aid, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: DV, Alex Willis, Gabriel Parker
Page Views: 162 total · 55/month
Shared By: Dylan Valvo on Oct 24, 2020
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Access Issue: 2021 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th) Details

Description

Pitch 1: Climb the slab careful where you place gear in hollow flakes. Establish yourself under the first roof below the left facing corner. Climb out roof and into dihedral eventually going right on horizontal. It is very important to extend all placement up until now. If climbing on a single rope you need to extend these placements big time and should continue to extend placements as you traverse the rail to gain the seam. Aid up the seam using trickery. Eventually gaining the lone aid bolt. After the bolt bat hook up the blank overhang until you gain natural hooks and a few tied off pins trending right and up. Soon the angel kicks forwards, cams come back into play  and if dry you can free climb around the right side of large dead tree. Don’t attach this monster to your rope. Above the tree there is a 3.5” one bolt anchor that on the second time climbing I pulled up rope and short fixed off of continuing to climb up the veg corner/face to a better ledge underneath the slab pitch. Here you can build an anchor with a lost arrow and a couple cams. If another party doesn’t like these options they can add a second bolt at the one bolt belay after the roof but short fixing off this is the way to go for speed/position and the anchor above backs the bolt.  140’ A3+
Pitch 2: Carefully climb off the belay and creep over the roof clipping the first bolt. Make the tricky mantle and fire into the amazing off balance slab/face past 4 more bolts and a couple gear placements. This pitch is super fun with a light rack. Only pieces needed are .75, #3, and blue tricam. Land on the giant ledge above.
180’ 5.11
Pitch 3: This pitch is still prettt dirty... I’ll try and scrub it soon. Climb face and crank the roof 14’ off ledge. There is a fixed pin you can clip. Once on the ramp trend up towards offwidth dihedral. Climb this fun wide corner to the rhodos. All gear. If you don’t like the looks of this locate the bolts on the outside of the corner on the steep face to the right.This is pitch 5 of Bare Knuckle Boxing and much cleaner. 80’ 10+

I started developing this route solo.  When I pulled the first little crux getting off the slab, out of the roof and into the corner I was slightly gripped and stepped high of a hook to sink a BOMBER cam. When I clipped it and took a deep breath I looked down and left of my ankles and there was a bolt with a bail biner on it. I was pretty surprised that someone would drill from that hook when they could have just stepped up and tossed a tricam/large nut/anything in above. Would have been much less sketch... This bolt was removed but I didn’t have any putty to fill the hole. If you go climb this then please fill that hole as it will take 30 seconds and can be done from good gear above. There is also an old half built anchor and some relics hanging out of the left side of the dihedral on the lower section of pitch 1 but it seems silly to climb that feature unless you were really just trying to avoid the loose flakes. These bolts dont change the character of the route and are funny historical pieces so I left them. 

Location

This route climbs out the middle of the large amphitheater in between Bare Knuckle Boxing and Curt Johnson Memorial Route. Parker Kempf established the crack that arches from the right side of the cave and uses a bolt at the end to pass the roof right of HT. It’s climbs at A2 and is a very cool pitch.

Protection

Doubles to a #3, triples 00-.5 might be nice but you could get away without, tricams, medium hooks, bat hooks, one large beak a couple knife blades and lost arrows, half ropes make pitch one easier but not mandator.y.

Photos

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