Bare-Knuckle Boxing
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British R
| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 35.0798, -83.1432 |
| FA: | Andrew M., James M., Stephen F., Parker K. - 2010 |
| Page Views: | 959 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew McDowell on Oct 22, 2010 |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
As of 2021, there is a new online method for acquiring day and annual passes to Whitesides here: recreation.gov/activitypass…. $3 for a day pass, $15 for an annual pass.
Description
This route is very dirty, has sections of seriously loose rock, and has many serious runouts making it a not recommended route. I recall the last pitch being particularly loose with some serious runouts with bad fall potential on steep loose terrain.
Warning: Climbing at Whiteside Mountain is extremely dangerous due to long runouts, poor protection, loose rock, difficult route finding, and other factors. The information in this posting is provided for informational and historical purposes only to aid in understanding roughly where the route has been climbed before. Information provided is approximate, subjective, and based upon sometimes vague memories and opinions of recreational climber(s) that may not have been recorded until long after climbing the route. As such, the information is unverified and may be inaccurate, incomplete, and/or misleading. Any person(s) attempting to climb this route or any others does so at their own risk and is solely responsible for their party's safety using their own route-finding skills and judgement and shall not rely on any information in this posting. Bolts and fixed anchors left in place on the route were placed so as to protect the first ascent party, but it is neither claimed nor implied that such anchors as well as removable protection placement locations are safe or suitable to protect further ascents. It is the responsibility of climbers to practice redundancy in anchoring and thoroughly inspect bolts/fixed anchors before deciding to use them.
All pitch lengths where given are very rough guesses from climbing the route and must not be relied upon for rappelling the route or any other purpose.
P1: (5.9) Boulder up to corner, then climb cracks and flakes to an awkward traverse right to a bush ledge with a 2 bolt anchor on the far right end. Beware of hollow flakes. (About 80 feet)
P2: (5.10d) Climb up and right to a fixed pin after a tricky mantle. Continue up a left facing flake then traverse right and up to more flakes and a bolt. Continue straight up slab past another bolt and a left facing corner to a gear belay in a left facing corner with a sloping ledge. (About 120 feet)
P3: (5.8) Climb dirty and likely runout face to a gear belay on ledge below the huge overhang (About 110 feet)
P4: (5.11c) Climb out huge overhang with rotten rock and some bad fall potential (swinging into slab) past 2 bolts to a stance. Continue up and slightly right past easy terrain to a final bulge protected by a bolt and the top. Watch out for the ledge fall potential while pulling this final dirty mantle bulge. Beware of hollow flakes. (About 100 feet)
Location
Guessing about 150 feet left of Curt Johnson Memorial Route at obvious crack system on vertical rock left of the big arching roof features through which Human Trundle climbs. As with most routes, the "GPS" in the route heading was automatically carried over from the coordinates of a parent area and does not at all reflect the actual route coordinates which I do not know.



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