Type: Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Dylan Pike and James Garrett, 16 July 2020
Page Views: 776 total · 70/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Sep 3, 2020 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Description

This is an easy multi pitch bolted BCC route with a very short approach. For that, it is somewhat unique for the area. Definitely fun. Dylan and Emily's infant namesake son Boone now has something to aspire to:).

Pitch #1: Easy scrambling leads to a bulge with a bolt and continue straight up past a few other easy bulges and small roofs to a small two bolt rappel ledge. Continue past this rappel station passing another bolt to 3rd class scrambling (pass some loose shale here with care) to the huge ledge and two bolt belay. 5.5, 60m, 7 bolts.

Pitch #2: Continue straight up following bolts passing some broken up terrain passing two or three bulgy roofs to another ledge and two bolt belay. 5.6, 35m.

Pitch #3: Pass a small roof to the left and climb a steep pillar like feature passing three bolts. Can be tricky here. Some of the bolts here may not follow the easiest line but were placed in better rock. Climbing a bit left and then reaching out right may be easier than climbing bolt to bolt. Surmount this roof and then enter an OW section (one bolt) and finally scramble the last few meters to the two-bolt belay. 5.8, 30m, 5 bolts.

Pitch #4: Pass the bolt protected roof on right edge to another two bolts trending left. After the third bolt expect easy exit moves without fixed protection to the two bolt belay. 5.7, 20m, 3 bolts.

Rappel the Route. 70m rope recommended. Possible with a 60m.

Location

See attached photo/topo for clarity. This is on the South Facing quartzite of the Granite Flume and basically ascends the right buttress of the formation. 

Approach as for the little canyon, but as you reach the old aqueduct pathway 4 way path intersection, follow that for a short distance to the west (left). Instead of continuing up the little canyon, follow the aqueduct for about 100m until you are in a clearing and the south face is directly above you. From the aqueduct trail, follow some cairns up (north) and through some scrub oak clearings connecting some boulder/scree clearings to the foot of the wall. A quick 10-15 minute approach time.

 

Protection

8 QDs and assorted Camalots to #5 work well to supplement the fixed protection.

Photos