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California
> Lake Tahoe
> I-80 Corridor
> Auburn & Grass…
> Auburn SRA
> Bar
> Bar Rock
Half-Glass Lipper
V5 YDS 6C Font
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Bar Rock
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Bar Fight S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bar Fly S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bar Traverse, The V3 6A |
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Crawl, The V4 6B |
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Factotum S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Glass Lipper V6 7A |
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Half-Glass Lipper V5 6C |
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Pit, The V7 7A+ PG13 |
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Snake Pit V4 6B |
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| Type: | Boulder, 15 ft (5 m) |
| GPS: | 38.91902, -121.007 |
| FA: | Will Mahan, June 2020 (or old school?) |
| Page Views: | 587 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Will Mahan on Jun 19, 2020 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid
Details
Most of Auburn SRA is open from 7 am to sunset. Leave early enough to be off the trails before dusk. Most parking requires self registration fees in cash envelopes (or annual state park passes), and is enthusiastically enforced. Check the Auburn State Recreation Area website at parks.ca.gov/?page_id=502 for current information. Note that the park's policy is that technical roped climbing is only permitted in the Cave Valley/Quarry area - outside the fenced private quarry at the back. Unroped climbing - aka bouldering or DWS - is allowed everywhere with a safe landing.
Description
Brilliant sloper problem. SDS all the way to the right side, with right right hand around the corner on a good crimp. Move left onto the lip and use strategic heel hooks to stay on the lip. Just before the "death pit" move up and right to a good rail to mantle onto the slab. Top out.
EDIT: This is now the "half-glassed" version of the Full Glass Lipper V6. The full glass follows the entire lip over a landing of logs and tops out at the top of the lip.
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