| Type: | Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 5 pitches |
| GPS: | 52.2467, -116.44299 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,030 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Rhys Beaudry on Jun 1, 2020 |
| Admins: | Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry |
Description
3 pitches of approach climbing for 2 money pitches of slab-crack! Wear your helmet, and consider bringing shoes to walk off.
P1: 5.6 RX: Start at "D3" painted on the rock, heading up a short left facing corner (low 5th) to gain a sloping ledge. Reach up and clip your first and only bolt (6-8 m off the deck), trend slightly left but mostly up, following the path of least resistance. There is a horizontal hand-sized slot (BD #2), this was my last piece of pro. Continue up another 10 meters, and mind the rock, it becomes progressively more dreadful as you near the top-out ledge. Don't even think about pulling out on any of the flake holds!
(25 m, 1 quick draw, 1 hand sized cam. Gear anchor- look slightly to your left, BD # 0.75, 0.5, and 0.2-0.4)
P2: 4th Class: Head up and left along the ledge system, passing a tree along the way. Finish at an alcove with a bolted belay- a new Fixe bolt with a rap ring and an old school metolius rap hanger. Protect the traverse with cams from BD #0.5-2 if you want, but many parties will be comfortable scrambling without pro.
(40 m, 2 bolt anchor)
P3: 5.6 RX: From the alcove, step back to the right, and head up the left slanting weakness in the rock. Follow the path of least resistance to a tree'd ledge above, with a bolted/rap ring stance plumb to your climbing line. The crux comes just a couple of moves after leaving the alcove, there is a spot for a finger sized cam (BD 0.4) which sort of protects the hardest portion of this pitch. Rock becomes more marginal higher on this pitch and pro is scarce.
(35+ m, BD # 0.4, 1, 2 bolt anchor)
P4/5: 5.8: You have now been deposited at the base of the awe inspiring namesake hidden crack. You know what to do! From the bolted belay stance, walk right, pulling a couple of slab moves back up and to the left to gain the crack. Gear is a bit finicky, especially just off the deck. The crack offers limited true crack climbing, but the slab on either side is highly featured.
P4: 30 m, cams 0.2-3, nuts. Extend your first few pieces. 2-bolt semi-hanging belay.
P5: 45? m, cams 0.2-3, nuts, 5 bolts, 2 pins. After the crack disappears follow the bolt line up and right on easy slab. After the last bolt, continue another half meter to the right and then punch straight up through the less than confidence inspiring rock and continue up along a left facing corner. Once you top out, look up and to your left for a 2 bolt belay station.
Descent: Walk off- head down the ridge, no down-climbing involved. The trail becomes more clear as you get lower, and is sparsely flagged in select places to mark passes around small cliff bands
Rack: Helmet! Nuts (preferably offset), cams from finger to big hands (BD 0.2-3). Depending on how bold you plan on being, consider bringing doubles from 0.4-0.75, and even doubles at 1-2. 7+ draws and at least a handful of alpines. No need for big cams despite the 2 m of off-width; smaller pro at the back, good pro before and after, plus, you don't have to climb the section as off-width.
Linking Pitches: Don't. Rope drag is not an issue for linking P4/5, but rope length may be.



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