Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches
FA: Pitch 1&2: Mary & Tai DeVore / Upper Pitches: Tai DeVore, Greg Smith
Page Views: 327 total · 28/month
Shared By: Gumby boy king on May 26, 2020
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description

I saw this crack and bolted face rapping from stone's throw and just had to check it out because it looked so cool. Note I only climbed the first two pitches.

Pitch 1: 4 bolts/20 meter/5.9: there are bolts to get up to the anchor and some crack climbing, but we opted to just scramble the path or least resistance to reach the anchor, otherwise clip a bolt, climb the crack, and then clip three more bolts to the anchors.

Pitch 2: 7 bolts/35 meters/5.12b: Start in a right facing corner and continue up through the crack, there are multiple ways to skin this pony. The crack takes mostly finger sized gear and eats nuts. I think the biggest piece I placed was a .75". Once the crack ends at a nice stance, traverse right and clip bolts up the left leaning seam on absolute bullet rock to the anchors.

Pitches 3&4 I was told a finger sized piece or two is nice to have, but they are mostly bolted pitches, so you can leave the rack at the top of P2 anchors. I didn't climb these pitches but the grades are .11c and .11d according to the guidbook.

Location

To the right of Stone's throw. Look for a double crack type feature (one of the cracks is more of a flake) and that is where you are going.

Protection

bolts, single rack to .75"

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