Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Bighorn Wall

Chester the Molester S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dr. Feelgood T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hellhound On My Trail S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Old and the Bold T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sole Neuropathy T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Van Candy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Urmas Franosch, Kent Barton, Tai DeVore (Oct '07)
Page Views: 393 total, 5/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Aug 28, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This nice route is sort of in the middle of the wall.

P1: Start up some easy blocks. Climb past 7 bolts and then traverse left across a gully to reach a bolted anchor below an overhang. This is mostly an approach pitch to get to the good climbing.

P2: Lieback and jam around the overhang, finishing out a bulge on some questionable, but big, holds. Then follow the line of bolts up the nicely featured face to the anchors. A little loose in some spots, but overall a great pitch.

Make 2 raps with one 70m rope.

Protection

15 quickdraws.

Photos

Todd Graham
Sierra Eastside, CA
Todd Graham   Sierra Eastside, CA
Cool route up good rock. Climbed 3 pitches with an 80 meter which allowed us to lower the second down to the ledge at the top of pitch 2 from anchor atop pitch 3. Single rope rappel off ledge atop pitch 2 to anchor atop pitch 1. Bottom line...80 meter allows you to get off entire route using route's ledge anchors.
1st pitch: Scramble up broken blocks past a few bolts to ledge anchor below the layback corner.
2nd pitch: Layback up right-facing bolted corner, then around left to face climbing to big ledge.
3rd pitch: Follow line that angles up and left then jogs a bit right to sloping ledge with anchor. Rap entire route with 3 raps using an 80 meter. Jun 5, 2017
Some rework has occurred in this area of the wall. The first two pitches of Hellhound remain the same, but pitch three has seen some rerouting. Pitch three is now longer (17 bolts) and it isn't possible to get back to the ledge at the end of P2 with a single rope. An intermediate anchor (just above the overlap) has been added that can be used to get off with a single 70m rope.

The pitch going straight up from the left side of the P2 ledge is Cerberus (more like easier 12 than 12+). The original Hellhound pitch starts on the right side of the ledge and trends left. A nice P3 variation is possible by starting with the first four bolts of Cerberus, then continuing on the Hellhound pitch (total of 19 bolts.) Aug 24, 2014
GhaMby Eagan
Heaven
  5.11a
GhaMby Eagan   Heaven
  5.11a
Yes there are 3 pitches,

p1=5.8 and actually harder than it looks from the ground
p2=5.11a-belay pass first set of chains (unless you're rapping back down) and belay from ledge.
p3=5.10d-goes up left from anchors on ledge (the route straight up/right of anchors/is 12+) Jul 22, 2014
Jeff Scheuerell
  5.11a
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.11a
I think there are now 3 pitches. Apr 27, 2014