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Old and the Bold
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.6 from 10 votes
Type: | Trad, 5 pitches |
FA: | Tai DeVore, Greg Smith, Jeremy Freeman et al. |
Page Views: | 2,472 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | fossana on Jul 17, 2011 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
P1 (10c, 18 bolts)
Starting to the right of the pillar climb up a seam passing a rap station just left of the route ~half way up the pitch (you'll use it on the descent). Note: This pitch has the crappiest rock on the route. If you can get through it you'll be rewarded with some fun pitches on better rock up top. The route is worth more stars as this pitch cleans up.
P2 (10a, 3 bolts, gear to #4 Camalot)
Head up a short but awkward grainy crack past 2 bolts to a black chimney. Follow easier ground up the right-most crack system on better rock.
P3 (8, 10 bolts, gear to #2 Camalot)
Clip a bolt and step right around the arete onto a varnished face. Head up the face to the bolted anchor (hanging belay) or build a more cushy on a shrubby ledge at the base of the 10b corner.
P4 (10b, gear to #4 Camalot)
Grunt up the left-facing corner. Belay from either the top of the corner or at the base of the next left-facing corner.
P5 (10b, 2 bolts, gear to #4)
Head up the left-facing corner clipping a bolt under the roof as you traverse to the anchor.
Starting to the right of the pillar climb up a seam passing a rap station just left of the route ~half way up the pitch (you'll use it on the descent). Note: This pitch has the crappiest rock on the route. If you can get through it you'll be rewarded with some fun pitches on better rock up top. The route is worth more stars as this pitch cleans up.
P2 (10a, 3 bolts, gear to #4 Camalot)
Head up a short but awkward grainy crack past 2 bolts to a black chimney. Follow easier ground up the right-most crack system on better rock.
P3 (8, 10 bolts, gear to #2 Camalot)
Clip a bolt and step right around the arete onto a varnished face. Head up the face to the bolted anchor (hanging belay) or build a more cushy on a shrubby ledge at the base of the 10b corner.
P4 (10b, gear to #4 Camalot)
Grunt up the left-facing corner. Belay from either the top of the corner or at the base of the next left-facing corner.
P5 (10b, 2 bolts, gear to #4)
Head up the left-facing corner clipping a bolt under the roof as you traverse to the anchor.
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