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Routes in Bighorn Wall

Chester the Molester S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dr. Feelgood T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hellhound On My Trail S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Old and the Bold T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sole Neuropathy T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Van Candy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: Tai DeVore, Greg Smith, Jeremy Freeman et al.
Page Views: 1,294 total, 17/month
Shared By: fossana on Jul 17, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

P1 (10c, 18 bolts)
Starting to the right of the pillar climb up a seam passing a rap station just left of the route ~half way up the pitch (you'll use it on the descent). Note: This pitch has the crappiest rock on the route. If you can get through it you'll be rewarded with some fun pitches on better rock up top. The route is worth more stars as this pitch cleans up.

P2 (10a, 3 bolts, gear to #4 Camalot)
Head up a short but awkward grainy crack past 2 bolts to a black chimney. Follow easier ground up the right-most crack system on better rock.

P3 (8, 10 bolts, gear to #2 Camalot)
Clip a bolt and step right around the arete onto a varnished face. Head up the face to the bolted anchor (hanging belay) or build a more cushy on a shrubby ledge at the base of the 10b corner.

P4 (10b, gear to #4 Camalot)

Grunt up the left-facing corner. Belay from either the top of the corner or at the base of the next left-facing corner.

P5 (10b, 2 bolts, gear to #4)
Head up the left-facing corner clipping a bolt under the roof as you traverse to the anchor.

Location

The route starts just uphill from the pillar that sits on the right half of Big Horn Wall and climbs a reddish wall continuing through a break in the prominent roof system. The route stays shady even in summer.

DESCENT
Rap the route with 6 35m raps.

Protection

70m rope

Gear to #4 Camalot, extra #1-3s (nuts not necessary). Note: If you use the alternate belay for P3 you'll use up a #2. The next pitch is fairly sustained #2s and #3s so if you're not solid at that size consider triples.
Kinda scary when you tap on a hand hold and feel the virations on your foot. If this is cleaning up, can't imagine the fa.. Jul 2, 2016
Ian McEleney
Mammoth Lakes, CA
 
Ian McEleney   Mammoth Lakes, CA
 
Climbed this today. Pitch 1 is definitely cleaning up. It's long. On pitch 3, the bushy ledge is a much better place to finish than the bolted anchor, but there's still some loose rock on the ledge and in the start of the corner above, take care if there are parties below. I second Neil's comments on the rack. Jun 7, 2013
fossana
leeds, ut
 
fossana   leeds, ut
 
Way to go wreck the route, James ;) Jun 4, 2013
James Barnett
Bishop Ca.
James Barnett   Bishop Ca.
FYI
Pulled a large block off at the 3rd bolt on the 1st pitch.
Not sure how difficult it is now, didn't continue. Aug 24, 2012
Wylie
Flagstaff, AZ
Wylie   Flagstaff, AZ
I loved the first pitch and found the rock to be not so bad. It goes on forever! Jun 17, 2012
neil, those 1/4" bolts were from the first acent party, who they are we have no clue. We assume that they continued to the top of the feature, but again thats just speculation. Feb 16, 2012
Jason Chinchen
Bend, Oregon
 
Jason Chinchen   Bend, Oregon
 
Had fun on this! The last pitch is sick!
Great job Tai! Jul 27, 2011
Nice route that gets some killer air under your feet! The first pitch is still a bit gritty with some loose holds which made it feel a little serious; it's well protected and should clean up with some more traffic. A single rack to .75 camalot, with doubles to #3, would be a great rack, the #4 got placed on P4 but wasn't necessary. Anyone know about the older-style 1/4" bolts on the route? Jul 23, 2011