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Routes in Bighorn Wall

Chester the Molester S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dr. Feelgood T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hellhound On My Trail S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Old and the Bold T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sole Neuropathy T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Van Candy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 120 ft
FA: Tom Helvie, Tim Steele
Page Views: 174 total, 2/month
Shared By: Tom Helvie on Aug 30, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start by clipping 2 bolts up to a small ledge. Place some pro (small nut & small cams) and climb opposing seams and cracks up to a 3rd bolt. More thin seams/cracks lead up to a 1 foot section of hand crack (#2 camalot) and a bomber #1 camalot in a section of crack to the left. Cruise up to another bolt and more thin cracks (small cams). At the 5th bolt, stop worrying about gear and clip bolts past the crux and a right leaning groove up to anchors under the bushes.

Location

This route climbs the cracked green wall at the top of the talus hill. Scramble up ledges to the start.

Protection

9 bolts, small nuts, small cams (aliens, tcus, etc) and cams to #2 camalot. Anchor is currently a quicklink anchor due to the current Eastside Mussy shortage.

Photos

This route could be 3 stars if it were cleaner. It is a very cool unique line. Unfortunately small bits of rock fall off with every move. The first 2 bolts suck you in, then you climb to the ledge and everything changes. I got a good but very small offset stopper and a red C3. Had to clean out dirt and grit to get the C3. Might have been able to get a third small piece if I had a cleaning tool(bring one). Worried about ripping my gear and decking if I fell before the 3rd bolt, especially with the bits of loose rock and lichen. Above the #2 was less than inspiring, a bit tipped out, a 3 would have been better. I did not see the spot for the #1 to the left but I got a solid piece just a few feet higher. Then the route gets hard.


If you like mixed routes, are solid at placing gear, and are a solid climber I recommend this route. Be ready for a bit of looseness and continuous climbing. And bring a nut tool. Sep 18, 2014
Tom Helvie
Bishop, CA
 
Tom Helvie   Bishop, CA
 
It's located on the separate green wall to the right of Old and the Bold. Consensus seems to be suggesting that this maybe a bit harder, like 11c? Jul 23, 2011
Where is this in location to Old and Bold? Jul 23, 2011
Victor Lawson
Bishop, CA
Victor Lawson   Bishop, CA
Oh No! The Eastside Mussy epidemic is upon us! Sep 24, 2010