| Type: | Sport, 95 ft (29 m) |
| GPS: | 39.9798, -105.29 |
| FA: | L. Bear, Pink; Brock, W.; Wu., S |
| Page Views: | 7,783 total · 101/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on May 8, 2020 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Location
It is in the middle of west face on the overhanging, blunt prow about halfway between Cry Uncle and West Face, the short 12c.
In order to keep access copacetic and ensure the future of new-routing at this and other cliffs, climbers are asked to use the original approach trail, to the East Face of Hillbilly, moving along the eastern edge of the big gully running north-to-south up to the toe of the rock.
Description
Stickclip a high first (or second bolt), and boulder up the nice chocolate-covered rock to a ledge. Crimpy climbing above leads to a distinct crux rounding the slab bulge, then more sustained terrain takes you steeply up the obtuse corner to a fixed draw in the purple rock and the redpoint crux. Above, encounter mini-cruxes separated by good rests. We stayed right for a harder sequence at the next-to-last bolt, but I think people go up and left now, grabbing the flexing flake in the roof--caution with this (I tired to pry it off, but it kind of stayed stuck). At the last bolt, move left onto the hanging arete on cool pockets for the better finish.



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