Type: Sport, 95 ft (29 m)
GPS: 39.9798, -105.29
FA: L. Bear, Pink; Brock, W.; Wu., S
Page Views: 7,783 total · 101/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on May 8, 2020 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Warning Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Location Suggest change

It is in the middle of west face on the overhanging, blunt prow about halfway between Cry Uncle and West Face, the short 12c.

In order to keep access copacetic and ensure the future of new-routing at this and other cliffs, climbers are asked to use the original approach trail, to the East Face of Hillbilly, moving along the eastern edge of the big gully running north-to-south up to the toe of the rock. 

Description Suggest change

Stickclip a high first (or second bolt), and boulder up the nice chocolate-covered rock to a ledge. Crimpy climbing above leads to a distinct crux rounding the slab bulge, then more sustained terrain takes you steeply up the obtuse corner to a fixed draw in the purple rock and the redpoint crux. Above, encounter mini-cruxes separated by good rests. We stayed right for a harder sequence at the next-to-last bolt, but I think people go up and left now, grabbing the flexing flake in the roof--caution with this (I tired to pry it off, but it kind of stayed stuck). At the last bolt, move left onto the hanging arete on cool pockets for the better finish.

Protection Suggest change

12 bolts to double-bolt anchors. Skip bolt 8 on the go. A 60-meter rope is fine.

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