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Routes in Hillbilly Rock

Bear Hug T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Billy Goat Arete T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Deb's Day Off TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
East Face Center/Hillbilly T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
East Face South Side/Hillbilly T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Jessica's Line (aka HBF Front Boulder) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Jethro T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
North Face T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
North Ridge (aka HBF Middle Boulder) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
West Face S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
West Face Right S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,523 total, 8/month
Shared By: George Bell on May 8, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

"Billy Goat Arete" is the arete on the north edge of the east face of Hillbilly Rock. It could also be called the Northeast Arete. I spotted this line today and it is a fun climb, but it is not in any guidebook. There is a crack about 3-4' left of the arete that makes for great holds and also pro. This would be an excellent first lead for a beginner, because unlike most Flatiron routes there is quite a bit of pro available. You can get some good practice placing gear in cracks.

This climb is about 200' long. Start at the base of the ridge and head up, staying just left of the Arete. About 20' up you will reach the crack, which is generally finger sized. Continue up excellent rock to the top which was draped with slings. The fact that there was chalk in the crack shows this route is somewhat popular.

Descend by either rapping 60' north off the summit, or downclimb the North Face route.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

Tim Meehan
Boulder, CO
  5.2
Tim Meehan   Boulder, CO
  5.2
At the rappel, the double wrap of static line around the boulder has seen better days. Added new webbing and a stainless quicklink. Tighten water knot before use. Also, be sure that your rappel rope does not bend over the sharp edge on the east half of the lip below the anchor. Jul 3, 2016
Brian C.
Longmont, CO
  5.0
Brian C.   Longmont, CO
  5.0
This route was very enjoyable and is totally worth your time if looking for a short climb or solo close to the car. Jun 1, 2014
Rick Blair
Denver
  5.2
Rick Blair   Denver
  5.2
With a 30 meter rope in 3 pitches: 100 feet to first nice belay ledge, 75 feet to second large belay ledge, 75 feet to top.

On descent, a 30 meter rope gets you to large ledge/platform 10 feet from walking territory. Easy 3rd class to the ground from there. There was a static rope around the huge summit block. This would make a good place for a chain anchor in my opinion.

Check out my beta photo on the main Hillbilly page for a much more civilized approach. Watch out for poison ivy!

2 stars, because I think this would be a great first lead. Aug 17, 2013
Rob White
Boulder, CO
Rob White   Boulder, CO
Thought this an excellent downclimb after scrambling up the east face left side, easy hand and finger jams almost the entire way. A worthwhile stop on the way out after ascending Stairway to Heaven. Mar 27, 2012
E Johnson
Boulder, CO
E Johnson   Boulder, CO
Finger crack may be 20 feet above the top of the boulder at the base, but if you start to the left of the boulder going up the flake undercling, it's more like 30 feet and not easily discernable.

Fun climbing for a new trad leader. Would like to do the other routes here but:

The approach absolutely sucked; the rain have caused the grasses and ferns to grow so tall you can't see what you are stepping on. And it is very steep. Miserable approach on a hot day. Jul 13, 2009
I begin this route about 20 feet up from the base on the north side and used all of a 60m rope to top out. I lowered my partner down the north side and then self-rappelled off a big west pointing horn. It didn't seem too dicey, but I will remember to pack webbing and rap rings to leave behind on every climb from now on. Aug 28, 2006
Scott Edlin
boulder, co
  5.1
Scott Edlin   boulder, co
  5.1
Worth one star only because it protects far better than any other east face Flatiron climb I've been on. Two pitches with an obvious large belay ledge, mediocre rock, and poor descent options. Jun 25, 2006
When I saw how nice this crack looked from the ground, I had to run up it just for fun. It seems to be the most aesthetic line on the crag. Was much easier than the downclimb. Apr 29, 2003