Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Gerry Roach? Maybe not? Jason Haas?
Page Views: 630 total · 4/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Aug 22, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is an obvious line on a large boulder lying just SE of Hillbilly Rock. We wandered past it on the way down from Ridge Two of Skunk Canyon. Its siren-like appeal may have got the best of us. If this is your line, please pardon me. We gave it a name, because it seemed fun to climb. Apparently, Gerry Roach did it previously & rated it F6. We rated it 5.7- (it definitely is harder than 5.5, but Gerry is a hardman), but it isn't an option in the rating difficulties on the site.

Gerry Roach apparently mentions it on p. 185 of his Flatirons guidebook, which I don't own. Thanks, Jason! Rossiter references various boulder problems on p. 155 of his excellent Flatirons guidebook. This is probably one of those. Maybe he just soloed it?

Jason Haas' picturesque Climbing Boulder's Flatirons lists this as "HBF Front Boulder."

Nonetheless, this boulder's east face draws the eye as it is a bit steeper than your average E face in the Flatirons (except Square Rock). There is a large, hanging, left-facing flake that you gain; however, it is mostly face climbing. Note, your first real pro except for hanging a skinny sling over a small edge is about 20 feet up. We did clear that 40 lb dangerous block near the top of the flake. We descended it by simul-rappel.

Location

You can wander up the gully East of Ridge One in Skunk Canyon. There is a modest trail heading up here. You can find it on your way down from Ridge One or Two climbs if you head East of Ridge One.

Protection

Used 2 slings, #11 hex, #1 Camalot. We used a #4 Camalot, 2 wires & a sling for the anchor.

Photos

Jessica's line?? LOL, this boulder saw many ascents before she followed you up it.

Poor rock getting off the ground and into the route itself, watch for friable flakes. Jan 5, 2012
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.7
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.7
We threw on a temporary name (one that has no real significance), because we grew tired of seeing Unknown, Unknown, Unknown. If you note the FA line, it doesn't suggest we claimed an FA, and if you note the text, it does mention something from Roach's and Haas's guidebooks. So, if you (or anyone) know the name of the line, please post it and I'll gladly change it. Jan 6, 2012