Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 426 total · 7/month
Shared By: Jeff G. on Dec 29, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a fun sport route in a nice setting. It starts with a 20 foot section of 5.8 to the first bolt, then intricate face climbing on cool crystals leads around the corner to crux moves going left along the roof. A good shakeout on big holds leads past one more tricky section. A moderate runout on pretty easy climbing leads to the anchor.

The Haas guidebook has this route graded as 5.12c. We didn't think it was nearly that hard, and I think it is probably closer to 12a.

Location

This is the right-most route on the West face of Hillbilly rock. Start up a nice looking slab to a high first bolt, then traverse left onto the steep face past a roof and three more bolts. After the 4th bolt, go back right to the arete, and finish on easier slab moves.

Protection

Bring some stoppers and small cams to avoid the long run-out to the first bolt. 4 bolts protect the hard climbing very well.

The anchor is now bomber with new bolts.

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Adam Sanders
Erie, CO
Adam Sanders   Erie, CO
There is all-new hardware on this and the adjacent 12c. A piece or two for the start and a stick clip for the other route are worth bringing up. Mar 10, 2014