Type: Sport, 55 ft (17 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,368 total · 16/month
Shared By: Jeff G on Dec 29, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a really good route in a nice setting. It starts with a 25 foot section of 5.8 to the first bolt. You need some gear for the start. After you clip the first bolt some intricate face climbing on cool crystals and edges leads around the corner to crux moves under the roof. Get an OK shakeout on some big holds after the crux, then get through one more tricky section to the last bolt. A moderate runout on 5.8'ish terrain leads to the anchor.

The Haas guidebook has this route graded as 5.12c. We didn't think it was nearly that hard, and I think it is probably closer to 12a.

Location

This is the rightmost route on the West face of Hillbilly Rock. Start up a nice looking slab to a high first bolt, then traverse left onto the steep face past a roof and three more bolts. After the 4th bolt, go back right to the arete, and finish on easier slab moves.

Protection

Bring some large stoppers and a few cams to avoid the long runout to the first bolt. A 0.75 or #1 Camalot can fit into a pod before the last awkward moves to the the 1st bolt. 4 new stainless bolts protect the hard climbing pretty well.

There is a good two bolt anchor.

Photos