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West Face Right [Suggest Change]
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Hillbilly Rock
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Bear Hug T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Billy Goat Arete T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a |
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Deb's Day Off TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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East Face Center/Hillbilly T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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East Face South Side/Hillbilly T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R |
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Jessica's Line (aka HBF Front Boulder) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Jethro T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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North Face T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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North Ridge (aka HBF Middle Boulder) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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West Face S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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West Face Right S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 55 ft |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 394 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Jeff G. on Dec 29, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click herebouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl… for the latest in raptor closures.
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click herebouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description [Suggest Change]
This is a fun sport route in a nice setting. It starts with a 20 foot section of 5.8 to the first bolt, then intricate face climbing on cool crystals leads around the corner to crux moves going left along the roof. A good shakeout on big holds leads past one more tricky section. A moderate runout on pretty easy climbing leads to the anchor.
The Haas guidebook has this route graded as 5.12c. We didn't think it was nearly that hard, and I think it is probably closer to 12a.
The Haas guidebook has this route graded as 5.12c. We didn't think it was nearly that hard, and I think it is probably closer to 12a.
Location [Suggest Change]
This is the right-most route on the West face of Hillbilly rock. Start up a nice looking slab to a high first bolt, then traverse left onto the steep face past a roof and three more bolts. After the 4th bolt, go back right to the arete, and finish on easier slab moves.
Protection [Suggest Change]
Bring some stoppers and small cams to avoid the long run-out to the first bolt. 4 bolts protect the hard climbing very well.
The anchor is now bomber with new bolts.
The anchor is now bomber with new bolts.
Photos
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Erie, CO