Fun with a Gun

At the grade of A3, this is probably the best aid route in the Laurentians to learn hard aid on. Perfect to prepare yourself for those Yosemite Valley classics (e.g. Zodiac). In June 2020, it was freed and became an interesting test-piece in traditional free climbing. This direct, all-gear, route goes up the steepest and most impressive wall. Please be mindful if you decide to aid it, try to go clean and go easy on the hammer.

I haven't aid it to be honest so I will let others do the detailed description about the aid beta and will only provide beta for free climbing.

Start right of the anchor and climb a short left facing corner to a tricky mantle onto a good foot hold to reach the main seam. Place some gear and mantle to a shallow ledge underneath a blank section capped with a few overlaps. Place a bomber finger size cam plus a critical sideways nut a foot above it (#4 BD Stopper). The next section is a little scary and involves very technical climbing on unusual features. Battle up this section to a very good hold and place a tiny wire plus a micro cam (0 BD Z4). Mantle onto that good hold to a good left gaston. Place crappy gear in the tiny flake above your head, or not. There is also a good but blindly placed red ballnut in the seam to your right. Do a hard high step to reach some thanks god gear placements and a good rest.

Place a good micro cam in the seam, clip the manky piton nest and go for it using compression moves, sloppy holds, a heel hook and more sloppy holds to finally reach a jug. Reestablish yourself above the crux to get some good gear. Climb an easier section, then a roof to a no-hand rest and more good gear. Climb to the bolt then fire the pumpy run out headwall section. 

The route follows a system of seem for its entire length. It starts on the spacious ledge to the right of the Marie 4 Poche/Cordonnier buttress. Start about 40 ft right of the Cordonnier corner. An old 2-bolt anchor and a rusty pin above it marks the start.

The crux section of the route seeps badly during the spring, but it dries and at some point around may/june, it stays dry. Looks like it then stays dry during summer and fall. 

It is quite specific but I would say standard and offset micro cams and nuts, brassies and ballnuts.