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Les Clochards Célestes
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
Routes in F. Black&White - Club Sandwich
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3D T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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5 km S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Apportez votre vin S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Artefact T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Artéfact Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Atlantide S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Black and White T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Club Sandwich T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Coupe à Blanc S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Distanciation Sociale T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fun with a Gun T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R |
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Jamais deux sans trois S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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L'Épée de Damoclès T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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La Bi-Centenaire T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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La Directe des Cordoniers T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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La Fête des Pères T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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La lumière Obscure S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Le Monde à l'envers T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Le Temple du Soleil S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Les Clochards Célestes T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Les Cordonniers T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Magyar S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Marie 4 poches T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Plan quinquennal T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Promenade sur Mars T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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Que ton règne vienne S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Romania S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Variante des Cordonniers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Voie d'accès S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
| Type: | Trad, 265 ft (80 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 45.94478, -74.52769 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 760 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Jerome St-Michel on Apr 30, 2019 |
| Admins: | Richer Lariviere, Luc-514 |
Access Issue: Peregrine Falcon Closure - Fermeture Faulcon Pèlerin
Details
Ça y est, la nidification du faucon pèlerin a commencé au Mont Larose à Weir. Fermetures: secteur Black and White.
Closed routes/Voies fermées:
La péripatéticienne, B&W, Que ton règne vienne, Les clochards célestes, Romania, Magyar, Coupe à blanc, Marie 4 poches, L'épée de Damoclès, L'envers de l'épée, Le monde de Damoclès, Le monde à l'envers, Le cordonnier, Variante du cordonnier.
This cliff is under the liability insurance of the Fédération Québécoise de la Montagne et de l'Escalade (FQME).
Residents of Canada need to have:
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass online.
This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.
Description
This is a fun multipitch adventure.
The route features two (2) sport pitches followed by a mixed third one.
P1: Start with some hard moves leading to good stances, then tackle a tough sequence (the crux) to reestablish above the steep and onto a slab. Traverse way right and climb the dihedral to reach a chained anchor. (9 bolts, 30 m, 5.11d)
P2: Move left of the first bolt into a small corner, clip the second bolt, then traverse back right into another corner. Probably the crux — use stemming and layback moves to reach a ledge. Walk 5–6 m to the right to reach a high bolt, then climb the face above using two (2) more bolts to a spacious ledge with a chained anchor. (7 bolts, 30 m, 5.10d)
P3: Traverse far right to reach the first bolt (easily visible from the belay). Climb a short corner to a ledge, then go straight up using layback, stemming, and maybe a fingerlock. Quite technical with many good resting stances. The last section, covering the final three bolts, is a bit dirty and could benefit from some wire brushing. At this point, the climbing eases off and is more on your feet. Join Black & White for the last 5–6 m. Bolted anchor on top. (9 bolts, 35 m, 5.12b)
Descent: Rappel the route.
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