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Routes in E. Black&White - Club Sandwich

3D T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Apportez votre vin S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Artefact T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Black and White T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Club Sandwich T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jamais deux sans trois S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
La Bi-Centenaire T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Le Cordonnier T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Le Monde à l’envers T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Le Temple du Soleil S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Magyar S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Marie 4 poches T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Promenade sur Mars T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Que ton règne vienne S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Romania S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: David Marche & Antoine Legault
Page Views: 60 total · 5/month
Shared By: Jerome St-Michel on Oct 30, 2017 with updates from De Hem
Admins: Luc-514

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Access Issue: This cliffs is insured by the FQME Details

Description

Reported as one of the hardest trad route in the Laurentians, this route has seen only very few ascents.

You have to either climb 3D (5.12a) or climb P1 (5.9) of Black & White (5.10+). Build an anchor on a nice ledge after traversing left from the anchor of B&W's P1.

Face climb tranding left from the ledge to a bolt then to an anchor that you can also clip. Get to the horizontal crack just underneath the roof. Traverse right to a good hold and climb the roof with some powerful sequences on the exit. Keep going straight to some thin crack to a face finish.

Descent: Rappel with a 70m rope. I don't know if you can get down with a 60m.

Location

You have to either climb 3D (5.12a) or climb P1 (5.9) of Black & White (5.10+).

Protection

to Camalot 3, doubles to 0.75. Theres is a bolted anchor a the top of the pitch.

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