Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: David Marche & Antoine Legault
Page Views: 306 total · 12/month
Shared By: Jerome St Michel on Oct 30, 2017 with improvements by De Hem
Admins: Luc-514

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Access Issue: Peregrine Falcon Closure - Fermeture Faulcon Pèlerin 2019 Details


Reported as one of the hardest trad route in the Laurentians, this route has seen only very few ascents.

You have to either climb 3D (5.12a) or climb P1 (5.9+) of Black & White (5.10+). Build an anchor on a nice ledge after traversing left from the anchor of B&W's P1.

Face climb trending left from the ledge to a bolt then to an anchor that you can also clip. Get to the horizontal crack just underneath the roof. Traverse right to a good hold and climb the roof with some powerful sequences on the exit. Keep going straight to some thin crack to a face finish.


You have to either climb 3D (5.12a) or climb P1 (5.9) of Black & White (5.10+).


To Camalot #2, with doubles from #0.3 to #0.75 plus nuts. There's a bolted anchor a the top of the pitch.

Descent: Rappel with a 70m rope. I know you can get down with a 60m but it barely is long enough.