Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: David Marche & Antoine Legault
Page Views: 95 total · 7/month
Shared By: Jerome St-Michel on Oct 30, 2017 with updates from De Hem
Admins: Luc-514

You & This Route


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Access Issue: This cliffs is insured by the FQME Details

Description

Reported as one of the hardest trad route in the Laurentians, this route has seen only very few ascents.

You have to either climb 3D (5.12a) or climb P1 (5.9) of Black & White (5.10+). Build an anchor on a nice ledge after traversing left from the anchor of B&W's P1.

Face climb tranding left from the ledge to a bolt then to an anchor that you can also clip. Get to the horizontal crack just underneath the roof. Traverse right to a good hold and climb the roof with some powerful sequences on the exit. Keep going straight to some thin crack to a face finish.

Descent: Rappel with a 70m rope. I know you can get down with a 60m but it barely is long enough.

Location

You have to either climb 3D (5.12a) or climb P1 (5.9) of Black & White (5.10+).

Protection

to Camalot 2, with dbls from 0.3 to 0.75 plus nuts. Theres is a bolted anchor a the top of the pitch.

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