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Routes in E. Black&White - Club Sandwich

3D T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Apportez votre vin S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Artefact T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Black and White T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Club Sandwich T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jamais deux sans trois S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
La Bi-Centenaire T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Le Cordonnier T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Le Monde à l’envers T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Marie 4 poches T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Promenade sur Mars T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Que ton règne vienne S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Romania S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: FA (1973) & FFA (1979)
Page Views: 168 total · 9/month
Shared By: Jerome St-Michel on Aug 18, 2016
Admins: Luc-514

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This cliffs is insured by the FQME Details

Description

An overhanging hand/fist crack that is mostly the finest trad climb at Weir. To access it, you either have to climb 3D (5.12a) or P1 (5.9) of Black & White (5.10+). If you decide to climb P1 of Black & White, you have to re-establish yourself on a ledge above and left of the anchor. In both cases, I recommend to build a gear belay on the ledge and not using the anchor of 3D, which is kind of too high/uncomfortable.

Pitch 1: Traverse left and head for the bolt, then clip it. You can also clip a fixed anchor above your head and/or just keep traversing and breaking through the roof (crux). Fight the pump and keep climbing the crack until it ease, right after a wide section. At that point, you can split this pitch by using the anchor that is on your right, or keep climbing and passing through a left facing corner (dirty) to another fixed anchor on La Voie du Centenaire's Ledge. (5.11+)

Pitch 2: I didn't climb that pitch and it looks dirty. From the anchor you have to go right and climb some overhanging dihedral. (5.8)

Location

This climb is located in Black & White's area. You either have to climb 3D (5.12a) or the first pitch of Black & White to access it. Refer to the description above for details.

Protection

to Camalot #3. Doubles of hand size pieces are useful.

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