Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
The Magic Spatula
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Routes in Cerro Colorado (aka Cerro Apidame)
|
" Chiquita Bacana" T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
" Davi Marski - in memoria" T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
|
|
" La Femme Mange" T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
" La promesa del puma venezuelano" T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
Asalto al Basalto 6b 160m E3 T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Bloqueador de Condor T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Blown Away T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Can You Ladue It? T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Charqui de Guanaco 6b+ 120m T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
|
|
Daly Splitter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Diario de un Bibliotecário 6c 165m E1 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Fate of the Flying Huanaco T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
|
|
Flight of the Condors T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Gauchito Gil T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Magic Spatula, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Tierra de Abrojos 6c 160m E1 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
unnamed Donini crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Way Mule T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Welcome to Paradise 6b 60m T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Young Gaucho T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Yuyitzu 6b 160m E1 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches |
| GPS: | -46.636, -71.7 |
| FA: | Austin Siadak, Matt Van Biene 2014. FFA: MVB, Coleman "Troutman" Blakeslee & Tad McCrea |
| Page Views: | 662 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Richard Shore on Jan 20, 2020 |
| Admins: | Alex R, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: access through private land and the mountain is located at Reserva Jejimeni (managed by CONAF)
Details
Description
Enjoyable & classic route. I thought this was the best line we did there in our weeklong visit. Bolted anchors to the top of P4 allow for a rappel descent (can probably be done with a single 70M and some easy downclimbing at the bottom of P1), or take it to the top and true summit for the walkoff.
P1) 5.10 thin crack, 40m.
P2) 5.10+ pass a small roof and continue up a finger crack, 20m.
P3) 5.11c Beautiful finger/thin crack and stemming up the corner, 30m.
P4) 5.10 continue up the left crack to a ledge, take the left crack again for 5M, them move right to another beautiful crack for 10M to the belay, 35m. Rappel from here OR:
P5) 5.6 easy terrain leads to the top of the wall, 15m. Walk/scramble to the summit.
Location
To the right of the prow. Follows a plumb line of beautiful red corners. See overview photos and reference the detailed beta and photos on Pataclimb.com
2 Comments