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Routes in Cerro Colorado (aka Cerro Apidame)

" Chiquita Bacana" T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
" Davi Marski - in memoria" T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
" La Femme Mange" T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
" La promesa del puma venezuelano" T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Asalto al Basalto 6b 160m E3 T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bloqueador de Condor T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Can You Ladue It? T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Charqui de Guanaco 6b+ 120m T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Daly Splitter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diario de un Bibliotecário 6c 165m E1 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fate of the Flying Huanaco T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Flight of the Condors T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gauchito Gil T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tierra de Abrojos 6c 160m E1 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Welcome to Paradise 6b 60m T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Young Gaucho T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yuyitzu 6b 160m E1 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
unnamed Donini crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 700 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Michael Dom, Marianela Fernadez Pedreros
Page Views: 43 total · 5/month
Shared By: Michael Dom on Feb 24, 2018
Admins: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster), Tony Yeary

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Access Issue: access through private land and the mountain is located at Reserva Jejimeni (managed by CONAF) Details

Description

This is a link up of two different routes and three new pitches.

Pitch 1 5.10

Climb the first pitch of Flight of the Condors
Two bolt anchor

Pitch 2 5.11

Step right on the ledge and make your way up past some bushes on small columns. Ascend the right facing crack until you get to a corner system with a few pockets on the left side and a slight crack on the right side. Fiddle in some nuts (red and blue ballnuts are good) and lunge to a rail and then make your way up a broken pillar.

Belay in a corner. Nuts and cams from .4 bd to #1 black diamond work well.

Pitch 3 5.10

Traverse left into a finnicky thin section that widens to nice hands. This has some loose rock on the right side of the wall.
Two bolt anchor

Pitch 4 5.10

This continues up the Fingers of Fate.

Climb an offwidth pillar that gives you a nice break on the detached column. Then bust out some face moves and leap for the top! Move to the right crack system and jam up the next detached column. Do some chimneying and and swing out like a monkey onto the top of the pillar.
Two bolt Anchor.

You cannot rappel the route if you continue from here.

Pitch 5 5.11

Climb up to the next ledge and immediately step left around the corner. There is a short 7 or 8 meter crack that gives you good gear and begins with a hand crack and narrows to thin fingers. Step left again and find a nice spacey ledge.

Belay in the left facing corner on the right side. Hand sized pieces are nice here.

Pitch 6 5.7

Stay left and move up the easy terrain to find a two bolt anchor on a nice ledge.
Two bolt anchor

Soak up the view and then step over to the top and walk down the gulley.

Location

Begin On Flight of The Condor and ascends the crack system between Gauchito Gil and Finger of Fate.

Protection

doubles from purple metolius to #4 black diamond. Red and blue ballnuts are not essential but very helpful. Offset nuts.

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