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Routes in Cerro Colorado (aka Cerro Apidame)

" Chiquita Bacana" T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
" Davi Marski - in memoria" T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
" La Femme Mange" T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
" La promesa del puma venezuelano" T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Asalto al Basalto 6b 160m E3 T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bloqueador de Condor T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Can You Ladue It? T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Charqui de Guanaco 6b+ 120m T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Daly Splitter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diario de un Bibliotecário 6c 165m E1 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fate of the Flying Huanaco T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Flight of the Condors T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gauchito Gil T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tierra de Abrojos 6c 160m E1 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Welcome to Paradise 6b 60m T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Young Gaucho T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yuyitzu 6b 160m E1 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
unnamed Donini crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Elevation: 3,600 ft
GPS: -46.636, -71.7 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 5,198 total · 116/month
Shared By: Mariana Candeia on Jan 19, 2015
Admins: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster), Tony Yeary
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: access through private land and the mountain is located at Reserva Jejimeni (managed by CONAF) Details

Description

Cerro Colorado is an astonishing mountain in Chilean Patagonia that reminds Devil`s Tower (WY). It seemed that is formed from what is left from the core of a volcano. It is a crack climbing paradise, with splitter cracks that goes beyond 40 meters length. The place is also special because the weather at that specific location is less windy ( still can be very windy!!) and less rainy/snowy than most of the places in Patagonia.

Because of the easy access to the routes, a person can have a sense of being in a crag, but the place it is an alpine environment: there are loose rocks and blocks on ledges. So, be aware of climbing parties above you!

A little bit of the history of the place. The place was first developed by Jim Donini (who went there in 2009 with Jay Smith, Jim Turner and other folks) Read: supertopo.com/tr/La-Pyramid….
daveeabrown.blogspot.com.ar…
ridingthedream.blogspot.co.…

Andres Bozzolo (from Chile), was the one who " discovered" the place. He also participated in the first ascents and he is one of the most engaged people in developing the place. The brazilians Mariana Candeia (Mita) and Mauricio Clauzet (Tonto) also left 4 new routes (Jan 2015).

One of the challenges of the place is to know where the routes are located. In this case, the practice has been in getting a small rock from the ground, writing the name of the route on it (with a tiny rock) and leaving it at the base of the pitch/route. This is way to recognize the lines and is also a practice that still does not leave a negative impact on the area.

The place has already multi-pitch routes, countless single pitches and a huge potential for new first ascents. CONAF (Reserve Jeinimeni) does not authorize sport routes on Cerro Colorado. Traditional Climbing only and bolts are allowed for rappel stations (or where is not possible to protect on gear).

Usually double rack. Make sure you also bring a great set of small gear and a good set of stoppers too!

Getting There

From Chile Chico it is about 20 minutes driving south towards Reserva Jeinimeni. The trailhead starts at a private property (Important to talk with the owners (Senor Marquez) of the land and ask permission to hike!). The hike to a good camp site (with water) takes about 3 hours and the elevation gain is around 600 meters in 6 kilometers.

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cerro Colorado (aka Cerro Apidame)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
" Chiquita Bacana"
Trad, Alpine
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
Flight of the Condors
Trad, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
" Chiquita Bacana"
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine
Flight of the Condors
 5
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Alpine
More Classic Climbs in Cerro Colorado (aka Cerro Apidame) »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Updated access information: Se├▒or Marquez left the estancia through which climbers accessed Cerro Colorado a few years ago. Additionally, this estancia was sold on Dec. 1, 2017, and the new owner is not permitting folks to cross the property. This may change in the future, but for now, the access noted in the original Google Earth map is not allowed. Climbers using this access will jeopardize the acceptance and support we've thus far been offered from CONAF and the local community. Currently, the only official access into the Jeinimeni Reserve (and to Cerro Colorado) is via the trail to Piedra Clavada, several kilometers further south on the road. From the trailhead, hike up the valley to the Piedra Clavada and then continue to the ridge above Cueva de las Manos (where the trail descends through Valle de la Luna). At this high point on the trail, ascend and then eventually contour, generally heading north, for several kilometers. Descend steeply into Quebrada Honda, and ascend the other side, eventually crossing the col on the eastern flank of Cerro Colorado. Once at the wall, traverse its base around to the north-west, and descend to the campsites. See the more recent Google Earth image for the recommended route. This approach is a significant undertaking. If you nail it, it is about 15 km, much of it off trail, and 1000+ meters of ascending and involves very difficult navigation and route-finding (map and compass skills are nearly imperative). The crossing of Quebrada Honda, depending on where you cross exactly, can involve very steep, loose slopes, and deep, strong currents with unstable footing. This is definitely not your typical "alpine crag" approach. There are a few other possibilities for approaches to Cerro Colorado, but none are established. Visitors should consult CONAF and local climbers for the best beta. Dec 29, 2017
Bring two ropes if you are going to rappel the route. Almost every route's rappel stations needs two ropes to get down unless you are going to summit and walk around. The walk takes about 45 minutes- 1 hour due to the nature of the loose rock. Feb 24, 2018
Nate Goodwin
Bozeman, MT
Nate Goodwin   Bozeman, MT
If you are in Chile Chico and need a place to stay, some beta on local access, or even help with logistics, Jaun who runs the Nandu Camp Hostel is a great resource and an overall awesome person, would highly recommend getting in contact with him. Mar 18, 2018
Mariana Candeia   brazil
Thanks, folks for those betas and update of informations such as the new approach!
Enjoy the climb! Mar 19, 2018

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