Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 6 pitches
FA: Bernard Amy and Pierre Vidailhet Feb 1968
Page Views: 2,235 total · 41/month
Shared By: S E on Jan 10, 2020
Admins: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route

6 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

Climb the furthest right couloir on the east face of Guillamet. This can be snow, alpine ice or somewhere in between. The schrund can be the crux later in the year. Screws could be useful but there is some rock gear on the sides of the couloir. To exit the couloir, climb a short mixed step which puts you at the col. Finish by climbing the Cosmena-Fonrouge to the top. If the rock is dry, it is easy. If it’s cold and snowy, the dry tooling is engaging (harder than M3) but is usually well protected. In general, you want to trend right on the ridge and follow the path of least resistance. The crux is the 20m obvious dihedral. The summit snowfield usually requires crampons. Descend the way you ascended on fixed anchors of varying quality. Inspect the tat and reset the pitons! Or descend the couloir directly to the left of the Amy which also usually has fixed anchors. This rappel route starts a few meters to the climber’s left of the bottom of the crux corner.

Location Suggest change

Approach via Piedra Negra and Paso Guillamet 

Protection Suggest change

Double ropes, single rack, stoppers, and a few ice screws. If the route is in winter conditions, a few extra mid sized cams might be nice