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Giordani variation to Comesaña or Brenner
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Aguja Gillaumet
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Amy-Vidailhet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c AI2-3 M3 |
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Brenner-Moschioni to Comesana-Fonrouge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Comesaña-Fonrouge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Easy Snow |
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Giordani variation to Comesaña or Brenner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Guillot-Conqueugniot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI3 M4 Easy Snow |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m) |
| FA: | Maurizio Giordani (Italy) solo, 7/12/1990. Corkscrew sit start: Owen Silitch, Jack Taylor, and Ben Farrar (USA), 02/01/2023? |
| Page Views: | 291 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Skeletor 69 on Feb 3, 2023 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
The Giordani-variation begins at the last saddle of the NW ridge of Guillaumet. If starting from Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte this is the 2nd saddle lookers right of the "wave" looking rock on the NW ridge. Climbs ~ 1000 feet (300 m) of moderate terrain (up to 5.8) to the start of the Comesaña-Fonrouge which the first ascensionist climbed to the cumbre. When we climbed it we had bailed from Aguja Pollone after attempting the sit start so we hiked from the base of the sit start all the way to the base of the Giordani, simul-climbed the Giordani to the base of the Comesaña-Fonrouge descended/traversed to Paso Guillaumet where we bivied and climbed the Brenner Ridge to the cumbre the next day. Because it is such a stupid and ridiculous itinerary it's hard for me to believe that this has been done before so we elected to call it the corkscrew sit start variation. It is more aesthetic/logical to finish with the Comesaña but we heard the Brenner was a better route so thats why we did what we did...
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