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> S America
> Argentina
> Santa Cruz
> Chalten Massif
> Cerro Fitz Roy…
> Aguja Gillaumet
Comesaña-Fonrouge
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British Easy Snow
Avg: 3.7 from 22
votes
Routes in Aguja Gillaumet
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Amy-Vidailhet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c AI2-3 M3 |
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Brenner-Moschioni to Comesana-Fonrouge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Comesaña-Fonrouge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Easy Snow |
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Giordani variation to Comesaña or Brenner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Guillot-Conqueugniot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI3 M4 Easy Snow |
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| Type: | Trad, Snow, Alpine, 1320 ft (400 m), 13 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | José Luis Fonrouge and Carlos “Pampero” Comesaña (ARG) |
| Page Views: | 4,042 total · 36/month |
| Shared By: | Priti Wright on Feb 22, 2016 |
| Admins: | Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Description
This route is a perfect choice for a first climb in the area. The route climbs a steep snowfield (40˚/50˚) at the base of the north face, to a ledge that gives access to the buttress. Easy terrain following the crest (4/5) leads to a steep 25 meter long dihedral which is the crux (6b+ or A1), after which a short traverse (15 meters) to the left leads to an easy dihedral (40 meters, 5+) which finishes at the base of the summit ridge. A couple of more pitches on the left, west side of the ridge (3 and 4, with one short bit of 5) lead to the summit snowfield (30˚), which late in the season can be avoided by climbing easy rock on its right side. Normally boots and crampons are necessary to reach the base of the route and often they can be needed to climb the last 70 meters to the summit.
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