Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, 1320 ft, 13 pitches, Grade IV
FA: José Luis Fonrouge and Carlos “Pampero” Comesaña (ARG)
Page Views: 1,701 total · 42/month
Shared By: Priti Wright on Feb 22, 2016
Admins: Tony Yeary, Camster (Rhymes with Hamster), Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


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Description

This route is a perfect choice for a first climb in the area. The route climbs a steep snowfield (40˚/50˚) at the base of the north face, to a ledge that gives access to the buttress. Easy terrain following the crest (4/5) leads to a steep 25 meter long dihedral which is the crux (6b+ or A1), after which a short traverse (15 meters) to the left leads to an easy dihedral (40 meters, 5+) which finishes at the base of the summit ridge. A couple of more pitches on the left, west side of the ridge (3 and 4, with one short bit of 5) lead to the summit snowfield (30˚), which late in the season can be avoided by climbing easy rock on its right side. Normally boots and crampons are necessary to reach the base of the route and often they can be needed to climb the last 70 meters to the summit.

Location

Approach Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra, then up the left side of the glacier, onto a talus field, and finally across a snowfield (45˚) to the right. One and a half hours from Piedra Negra.

Protection

Doubles to #1, one each to #3, stoppers
Some fixed pitons in place, rappel stations on route. Descend the route or (35 meter raps) or optionally descend Amy.

Photos

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