All Locations > International > S America > Argentina > Santa Cruz > Chalten Massif > Cerro Fitz Roy… > Aguja Gillaumet
Avg: 3.8 from 13 votes
|Type:||Trad, Snow, Alpine, 1320 ft, 13 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||José Luis Fonrouge and Carlos “Pampero” Comesaña (ARG)|
|Page Views:||1,701 total · 42/month|
|Shared By:||Priti Wright on Feb 22, 2016|
|Admins:||Tony Yeary, Camster (Rhymes with Hamster), Mauricio Herrera Cuadra|
This route is a perfect choice for a first climb in the area. The route climbs a steep snowfield (40˚/50˚) at the base of the north face, to a ledge that gives access to the buttress. Easy terrain following the crest (4/5) leads to a steep 25 meter long dihedral which is the crux (6b+ or A1), after which a short traverse (15 meters) to the left leads to an easy dihedral (40 meters, 5+) which finishes at the base of the summit ridge. A couple of more pitches on the left, west side of the ridge (3 and 4, with one short bit of 5) lead to the summit snowfield (30˚), which late in the season can be avoided by climbing easy rock on its right side. Normally boots and crampons are necessary to reach the base of the route and often they can be needed to climb the last 70 meters to the summit.
Approach Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra, then up the left side of the glacier, onto a talus field, and finally across a snowfield (45˚) to the right. One and a half hours from Piedra Negra.