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Routes in Chalten Massif

East Face Glacier - Cerro Eléctrico T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
Afannassief T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Austríaca T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brenner-Moschioni to Comesana-Fonrouge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cara Este - Mojón Rojo T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
Chiaro di Luna (Claro de Luna) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Comesaña-Fonrouge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Frader Pisafe, aka Salvaterra T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
La Luna de Miel T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Last Gringos Standing T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Supercanaleta T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI4 M5-6 PG13
Voie Des Benitiers T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C1
Whillans-Cochrane T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI3 M4
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft, 10 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Eduardo Brenner-Eduardo Moschioni
Page Views: 1,412 total, 43/month
Shared By: Matt Peres on Mar 29, 2015
Admins: Tony Yeary, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description

Aguja Guillament Northeast Ridge. The ridge further west, Northwest ridge is the Comesana-Fonrouge.

Great first route in the area. Can be approached from Paso Superior as we did it or from Piedra del Fraile. Crux is a series of 3 cracks that split the face. The middle option, down the ramp to the left is 10d. The furthest right option is 11a or so. Clean, perfect granite that climbs the ridge to the snowfield which gains the summit.

Pitch 1: 5.9+ moving up the right facing flakes and face corners.

Pitch 2: 3rd class up and left

Pitch 3: 5.9+ up right facing corner

Pitch 4: Crux. 10d crack and offwidth. Furthest left of 3 cracks that split the face accessed down the ramp to the left. Clip a piton on the way. Possibly some Verglass inside.

Pitch 5-6- 10a/b up right facing corners and crack to a stance. Excellent pitch.

Pitch 7-8: 3rd class on ridge up and then down into the notch at the start of the rappels, at the top of Amy-Vidailhet.

Pitches 9-12: Connect with the Comesana-Fonrouge. 4th and 5th class up the ridge to gain the snow field at the top. Move over snow field and tallus slopes to gain the summit block.

Location

Aguja Guillament Northeast Ridge

Protection

Standard Rack to 3 in

Photos

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