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Routes in Horn Peak
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Freeslider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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North Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Jordan Collins, Oliver Abbitt 8/2019 |
| Page Views: | 923 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Oliver Abbitt on Nov 19, 2019 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures
Details
The SeKi Rock Climbing website nps.gov/seki/planyourvisit/… has current closures as well as other climbing information for visitors.
Moro Rock (SEKI) and Chimney Rocks usually have nesting closures every year from April 1 to August 15.
As of April 2016, all routes are open to climbing.
Moro Rock (SEKI) and Chimney Rocks usually have nesting closures every year from April 1 to August 15.
As of April 2016, all routes are open to climbing.
Description
Named (tongue in cheek) for the fun glissade on the descent, we spied this route from the top of Saber Ridge and went out the next day to climb it. It would be a fun day to descend into Elizabeth pass after climbing Saber Ridge and then climb Freeslider The route consists of moderate climbing on great, featured rock. Protection is good but there are a couple runouts that could be a bit intimidating if 5.8 is your limit.
Pitch Descriptions:
Pitch 1:
Start almost directly below/slightly left of the beautiful featured dihedral far above you, follow the crack (sometimes wet). Mostly meandering around the crack on face holds using crack for protection. End at an ok stance below a possibly better stance but worse gear. 5.5 40m
Pitch 2:
Continue up the obvious crack system, at times veering off to one side or the other for protection. There is some wetness but it's easy to avoid. 5.7 45m
Pitch 3:
Directly above you a 10 foot long splitter number two crack leads to nowhere, place a good piece in this crack as high or low as you want and traverse left a few feet. Go up and slightly right on knobs for a little runout. Step up into wide cracks that don’t involve crack climbing. When it makes sense, make a fun traverse right on large knobs over to a good belay ledge slightly right of the dihedral the route has been following. 5.7 30m
Pitch 4:
This is the obvious, featured dihedral you can easily spot from the ground. Climb the dihedral using amazing patina holds on your left. Super fun. At a certain point the corner become blocky and appears chossy. It's easy to climb around this at about 5.9 but we kicked on everything on our way up and couldn't dislodge anything. Build a belay above this. 5.8 50m
Pitch 5:
Continue following the dihedral up. When you get to a large bush there is a large diorite blob on the face on your right , traverse right to stand on the knob and peak farther right to find a fun little splitter layback that leads you back into dihedral (Alternatively follow dihedral straight up through the one bush.) Continue up dihedral a little farther until a little seam goes out right to a small pinnacle. Stem and Gaston with the seam to get to the top of pinnacle and move over to right of pinnacle for your belay. Slung pinnacle + gear make this a pretty fun belay. 5.7 30m
Pitch 6:
Step off the pinnacle and re-enter the main dihedral. Follow the thin crack, placing gear where possible until you reach a short, steeper section at the top of the dihedral. A #.1 was nice here to protect these moves. Do some face climbing out left on good diorite blobs until you can head out right towards the obvious break in the roofs guarding the summit ridge. Enjoy your way to the top! 5.8 60m
Pitch Descriptions:
Pitch 1:
Start almost directly below/slightly left of the beautiful featured dihedral far above you, follow the crack (sometimes wet). Mostly meandering around the crack on face holds using crack for protection. End at an ok stance below a possibly better stance but worse gear. 5.5 40m
Pitch 2:
Continue up the obvious crack system, at times veering off to one side or the other for protection. There is some wetness but it's easy to avoid. 5.7 45m
Pitch 3:
Directly above you a 10 foot long splitter number two crack leads to nowhere, place a good piece in this crack as high or low as you want and traverse left a few feet. Go up and slightly right on knobs for a little runout. Step up into wide cracks that don’t involve crack climbing. When it makes sense, make a fun traverse right on large knobs over to a good belay ledge slightly right of the dihedral the route has been following. 5.7 30m
Pitch 4:
This is the obvious, featured dihedral you can easily spot from the ground. Climb the dihedral using amazing patina holds on your left. Super fun. At a certain point the corner become blocky and appears chossy. It's easy to climb around this at about 5.9 but we kicked on everything on our way up and couldn't dislodge anything. Build a belay above this. 5.8 50m
Pitch 5:
Continue following the dihedral up. When you get to a large bush there is a large diorite blob on the face on your right , traverse right to stand on the knob and peak farther right to find a fun little splitter layback that leads you back into dihedral (Alternatively follow dihedral straight up through the one bush.) Continue up dihedral a little farther until a little seam goes out right to a small pinnacle. Stem and Gaston with the seam to get to the top of pinnacle and move over to right of pinnacle for your belay. Slung pinnacle + gear make this a pretty fun belay. 5.7 30m
Pitch 6:
Step off the pinnacle and re-enter the main dihedral. Follow the thin crack, placing gear where possible until you reach a short, steeper section at the top of the dihedral. A #.1 was nice here to protect these moves. Do some face climbing out left on good diorite blobs until you can head out right towards the obvious break in the roofs guarding the summit ridge. Enjoy your way to the top! 5.8 60m
Location
The nearest trailhead is Crescent Meadow ~18 miles. We camped at the base of the Elizabeth Pass trail on the Tamarack Lake side. It would also be easy to approach from a camp at Lonely Lake or in Deadman's canyon. The route is just southwest of Elizabeth Pass and begins in a low angled, obvious crack. This leads into a nice looking golden dihedral that's easy to spot from the ground.
The descent involved rappelling off a block on the back onto a long stretch of snow which made a great slide. We left some webbing slung on a block but it could be a good idea to bring your own to back it up. It would also be possible to traverse the summit ridge over towards Horn Peak proper and descend there.
The descent involved rappelling off a block on the back onto a long stretch of snow which made a great slide. We left some webbing slung on a block but it could be a good idea to bring your own to back it up. It would also be possible to traverse the summit ridge over towards Horn Peak proper and descend there.
Protection
60m rope. Standard alpine rack. We brought 2x BD #.2-.3, 1x BD #.1,#4,#5 on the first ascent. The #4 and #5 were nice a couple of times but could easily be left behind for a team comfortable with minor runouts. All anchors are natural so having a set of nuts is nice as well. Some tat for to back up the rappel would be a good idea.
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