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Routes in Horn Peak

North Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 750 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Galen Rowel, Chris Jones, Greg Henzie 1970
Page Views: 330 total · 12/month
Shared By: Chad N on Aug 16, 2016
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures Details


Fantastic route! 1st 2 pitches are 5.7/5.8 knife edge ridge traversing, then 2 more pitches on the headwall that involve good cracks, chimneys and steep bulges. There are a few hard crux moves that felt very full value for 5.8. The cruxes are steep, roof-like bulge moves (think 1970  5.8,5.9)and hard chimneys in the squeeze size and bigger.


Start from near Horn Col. Scramble south up class 3 to a big boulder on the ridge filled with white and pink quartz. Rope up here and start the 2 pitches of knife edge ridge traverse.


No bolts, build your own anchors. Standard alpine rack, few doubles in the hand and small range. Lots of alpine draws.



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