Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Horn Peak

North Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, Alpine, 750 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Galen Rowel, Chris Jones, Greg Henzie 1970
Page Views: 260 total · 12/month
Shared By: Chad N on Aug 16, 2016
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Always check road conditions and peregrine closures Details

Description [Edit]

Fantastic route! 1st 2 pitches are 5.7/5.8 knife edge ridge traversing, then 2 more pitches on the headwall that involve good cracks, chimneys and steep bulges. There are a few hard crux moves that felt very full value for 5.8. The cruxes are steep, roof-like bulge moves and hard chimneys in the squeeze size and bigger.

Location [Edit]

Start from near Horn Col. Scramble south up class 3 to a big boulder on the ridge filled with white and pink quartz. Rope up here and start the 2 pitches of knife edge ridge traverse.

Protection [Edit]

No bolts, build your own anchors. Standard alpine rack, few doubles in the hand and small range. Lots of alpine draws.



More About North Arete