North Arete [Edit]
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 750 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Galen Rowel, Chris Jones, Greg Henzie 1970|
|Page Views:||260 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||Chad N on Aug 16, 2016|
|Admins:||M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Access Issue: Always check road conditions and peregrine closures Details
Fantastic route! 1st 2 pitches are 5.7/5.8 knife edge ridge traversing, then 2 more pitches on the headwall that involve good cracks, chimneys and steep bulges. There are a few hard crux moves that felt very full value for 5.8. The cruxes are steep, roof-like bulge moves and hard chimneys in the squeeze size and bigger.
Start from near Horn Col. Scramble south up class 3 to a big boulder on the ridge filled with white and pink quartz. Rope up here and start the 2 pitches of knife edge ridge traverse.
No bolts, build your own anchors. Standard alpine rack, few doubles in the hand and small range. Lots of alpine draws.