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Crown Jewel
5.13c/d YDS 8b French 31 Ewbanks X UIAA 31 ZA E8 7a British
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in Static Wall
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All Static and No Dynamic S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Crown Jewel S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Leisure Route, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spinning in the Drain S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Transformer S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Sport |
| GPS: | 40.62647, -111.74584 |
| FA: | Rollin Grimmett 2019, equipped by Jeff Baldwin and Merril Bitter |
| Page Views: | 1,315 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Rollin on Nov 16, 2019 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: See details in expanded note.
Details
- Climbing at Storm Mountain is NOT CLOSED and climbers are allowed to continue to access climbing via Storm Mountain Picnic Area
- Parking in the Storm Mountain parking area requires a fee.
- Climbers are encouraged to use the Storm Mountain bathroom in order to protect our watershed.
- If climbing at or near the amphitheater in Storm Mountain (Big in Japan, Edge of Time) while the amphitheater is reserved or an event is on going, please consider climbing at other crags.
- Respect parking hours to avoid your car being gated in overnight. Gate closes at 10:00 p.m. daily
- If you did not reserve the facilities (amphitheater or picnic tables), please do not occupy or place personal items on the picnic tables.
- Please help the camp hosts keep the landscape clean.
(NOTE: these points are duplicated here from the Storm Mountain description so that they show up under the sub-areas.)
Description
This king line sits prominently above on storm mountain, and was bolted by Jeff Baldwin and Merrill Bitter sometime back in the early 90's (possibly the late 80's). It has some great exposure, and features awesome power endurance climbing!
According to Jeff, they struggled to figure out one of the moves. Unsure if it would go, and uninspired (or probably just more inspired to crush elsewhere), they walked away and never really went back. They put a lot of effort in to equip the line though, and it was well worth it.
At first I was doubtful about how the route might climb, but I was surprised to find that it was actually very very good. In my opinion, this is one of the best lines in BCC. It has some really rad holds, and the crux moves are powerful and precise.
Location
Far above the static wall there is a visible overhanging roof, the route climbs the gently overhanging and slightly left trending face on the right side.
To get there, my recommendation would be to climb the first pitch of the leisure route (skipping the intermediate belay), then clip the first bolt of the second pitch, and head directly up instead, placing a piece of gear before reaching the anchor at the base. This can be done in one pitch with a 70m. Jeff mentioned that they would just solo up there each time, so I guess you could also do that, probably using a variation of Reservoir Ridge to the east.
To descend, Merrill and Jeff bolted 2 rap stations climbers right of the Leisure Route that will get you down with 3 raps no problem. Or 2 raps with a 70 if you trend left to the base of Leisure after the first one.
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