Type: | Trad, 280 ft, 2 pitches |
FA: | Troy Anderson and Tyler Phillips 03-23-08 |
Page Views: | 2,721 total · 22/month |
Shared By: | Stevie Nacho on Mar 23, 2008 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
Description
This route offers one long and clean slab pitch and one steeper pitch. Many old routes have been done on this wall, but this is the first to go directly up the guts of the storm mtn cliff.
PITCH ONE: Once the first bolt is located in the gully, follow ten bolts, pass a two bolt (sub anchor),then pass one more bolt to another bolted belay with black webbing. Expect runouts between easy climbing.
PITCH TWO: angle up and left past a painted and really hidden bolt (12' up from the belay), a fixed knifeblade, then climb under the triangle roof. Place some cams then climb up and left towards four bolts on the edge of an arete. After the bolts enjoy easy climbing up beautiful stopper cracks to a two bolt anchor. There is a mystery anchor at the rim of the top of the pitch. This may be for the ice route in the winter. The anchor for the Leisure route is up and right from this old anchor.
PITCH ONE: Once the first bolt is located in the gully, follow ten bolts, pass a two bolt (sub anchor),then pass one more bolt to another bolted belay with black webbing. Expect runouts between easy climbing.
PITCH TWO: angle up and left past a painted and really hidden bolt (12' up from the belay), a fixed knifeblade, then climb under the triangle roof. Place some cams then climb up and left towards four bolts on the edge of an arete. After the bolts enjoy easy climbing up beautiful stopper cracks to a two bolt anchor. There is a mystery anchor at the rim of the top of the pitch. This may be for the ice route in the winter. The anchor for the Leisure route is up and right from this old anchor.
Location
Walk up the gully to the left of the storm mtn falls. Look for a bolt about 20' up from the gully. To descend, rap a single rope into the void and walk the slab to get back to the second pitch anchor. From here, rap to the sub anchor, then down. If you bring two ropes, you can skip the sub anchor. TIE KNOTS IN THE END OF THE ROPE WHEN DROPPING THE FIRST RAPPEL
Utah
Utah
I'm really excited to see that people are enjoying this route. This line is really fun and exceptionally exciting.
Good Times,
The Nacho May 24, 2008
Way to pay respect to the old school!
Stevie hates all people, including 5.8 leaders. Ask him he will tell ya himself.
Luked
Nov 18, 2008
Utah
James, Thanks for your comment on this rad route. Please go back when you aren't coming back from an injury. From what climbing I've seen you do, leads me to believe you'll send easily and really enjoy it.
Cheers my friends,
The Nacho
Previously known as TDA Nov 18, 2008
SLC, UT
What puzzles me is this. If the 1st pitch a nod to the old school, why is the second pitch is so well protected? 3 fixed pieces on easy ground before the roof, # 2 cam placement in the crack at the roof that you can still touch when clipping the first of the 4 bolts on the final bit to the chains. The 2 pitches couldn't be more opposite in how they were equipped.
This thing could be one of the BCC classics and getting a ton of traffic if, dare I say it, a bolt or two were added by the FA party. As it is now between the R rating and Mr. Garrett's comments this fantastic route isn't being climbed as much as it should and that's a shame.
Jul 8, 2011
Utah
-TDA Jul 8, 2011
SLC, UT
Good point about the traverse. Thanks for the doing it.
Get out and climb this thing. Jul 23, 2011
Utah
1 60 m rope = sketchy transition near the end of the rope
1 70 m rope = better
2 60 m ropes = leisurely slide to your pack right off the front
This would be a great route to climb naked while a wedding is going on at the amphitheater. Jul 8, 2015
SLC, UT
With a 70m you can just barely make (tie good knots in ends) it from the top to the chain anchor 2/3rds of the way up the first pitch. With a 60 you'll need to do three raps and it may be difficult to get to the webbing anchor and I would recommend replacing the webbing before rapping there. May 5, 2016
Utah
Three raps total with a single 60 meter rope. May 20, 2016
SLC, UT
It seems that this page would be better placed in the Static Wall area. The ice falls name and alpine label are misleading, hard to stumble upon. Accessable and worthy of more traffic from the masses! Jun 6, 2016
SLC, UT