The Leisure Route

nice work. Mar 23, 2008

Very cool route. I must say it was very Leisure. That Stevie Nacho sure knows how to find the good routes. Apr 21, 2008

The anchor on the top pitch needs larger rap rings. The rope pull would be much easier. Apr 30, 2008

Its about time that someone in the great and mighty Wasatch see that there are great routes to be had off the beaten path. Wonderful gem and I hope it gains respect. May 23, 2008

WOW!
I'm really excited to see that people are enjoying this route. This line is really fun and exceptionally exciting.

Good Times,

The Nacho May 24, 2008

Sorry Stevie...I really wanted to like this climb and expected to do so. It just didn't seem to be a 5.8 climb for 5.8 leaders like myself, I guess? I was coming off an injury, but I was seconding! What is with all the anchors all over the place up there? Nice climbing, though and nice movement. good find. 5.8R/almostX? Nov 17, 2008

Stevie,
Way to pay respect to the old school!
Stevie hates all people, including 5.8 leaders. Ask him he will tell ya himself.
Luked
Nov 18, 2008

Luke, you hit it head on regarding my "vision" for this route. I wanted to keep it as old school as possible. Its great to climb easy terrain yet be concerned for your life. The only section of this route that could be dangerous is the easy 5.6 at the bottom. The Leisure route will keep people on their toes and possibly able them for adventures in the desert. A definate must do.

James, Thanks for your comment on this rad route. Please go back when you aren't coming back from an injury. From what climbing I've seen you do, leads me to believe you'll send easily and really enjoy it.

Cheers my friends,

The Nacho
Previously known as TDA Nov 18, 2008

I climbed this for the second time today and it is really fun. I have to say that I am a bit confused by the way it was protected though. The first pitch is sparsely protected and certainly R which is fine. The climbing through the run-outs is easy enough.
What puzzles me is this. If the 1st pitch a nod to the old school, why is the second pitch is so well protected? 3 fixed pieces on easy ground before the roof, # 2 cam placement in the crack at the roof that you can still touch when clipping the first of the 4 bolts on the final bit to the chains. The 2 pitches couldn't be more opposite in how they were equipped.

This thing could be one of the BCC classics and getting a ton of traffic if, dare I say it, a bolt or two were added by the FA party. As it is now between the R rating and Mr. Garrett's comments this fantastic route isn't being climbed as much as it should and that's a shame.
Jul 8, 2011

I bolted this route roped solo. I remember being concerned with the second pitch being hard to clean while on solo. I really didn't want to have the "touching the void" situation for anybody seconding this pitch including myself during the first ascent. Thats the reason for the protection placement on the second pitch. The second pitch travels diagonally so I protected it better for the seconding climber. The first pitch is super easy and straight so I protected it less. Fun route

-TDA Jul 8, 2011

Stevie,
Good point about the traverse. Thanks for the doing it.

Get out and climb this thing. Jul 23, 2011

I went back and added four bolts to the first pitch, moved a bolt up high, and added chain to two of the three belays. I feel this route is no longer "R" and is more of a "L" for Leisurely. Rap from the top and hit the middle webbing belay if you have one rope. Rap from the top to the first chain belay if you have two ropes. The only cam needed is a #3 camalot or equivalent. Really fun leisurely route. Mar 26, 2012

Fun route. Find it up the gulley left of transformer. Very leisurely.
1 60 m rope = sketchy transition near the end of the rope
1 70 m rope = better
2 60 m ropes = leisurely slide to your pack right off the front

This would be a great route to climb naked while a wedding is going on at the amphitheater. Jul 8, 2015

Fun leisurely route with great views. With the added bolts the first pitch is now well protected. I only found two bolts above the second pitch crux (which I thought was no harder than first pitch crux) but there were plenty of cam placements. Steve you may want to update the route description with regards to current bolt counts.

With a 70m you can just barely make (tie good knots in ends) it from the top to the chain anchor 2/3rds of the way up the first pitch. With a 60 you'll need to do three raps and it may be difficult to get to the webbing anchor and I would recommend replacing the webbing before rapping there. May 5, 2016

The original descent is to rap back to the second webbing anchor on one 60 meter rope. This requires an easy pendulum. From there, two raps to the ground.
Three raps total with a single 60 meter rope. May 20, 2016

An awesome cruise with mostly solid rock and big exposure for the grade! A single 2 or 4 camalot protects the crux stem, plus finger size cams if you'd like to avoid an exciting but easy runout to the top anchor. No runouts otherwise, "sport" protected with the added bolts.

It seems that this page would be better placed in the Static Wall area. The ice falls name and alpine label are misleading, hard to stumble upon. Accessable and worthy of more traffic from the masses! Jun 6, 2016

Fun route. The bolt count should probably be updated in the description. The first pitch had a 10 bolts plus, a 2 bolt sub anchor, and 2 bolts with slings to belay. On the second pitch I used a large nut and a #3 cam in the roof, and a #1 cam in the finger crack above a few more bolts. Oct 2, 2016

The second pitch was fantastic!

There was a rap anchor and chains on the way up to what is described above as the top of the first pitch. The top of the first pitch had a two bolt anchor with lots of webbing. The top of the final second pitch after the arete has some beefy chains on the right bolt and some chains that look like they came from ACE Hardware on the left bolt. Jun 21, 2018