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Routes in Static Wall

All Static and No Dynamic S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Leisure Route, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Transformer S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 280 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Troy Anderson and Tyler Phillips 03-23-08
Page Views: 2,692 total, 23/month
Shared By: Stevie Nacho on Mar 23, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

This route offers one long and clean slab pitch and one steeper pitch. Many old routes have been done on this wall, but this is the first to go directly up the guts of the storm mtn cliff.

PITCH ONE: Once the first bolt is located in the gully, follow ten bolts, pass a two bolt (sub anchor),then pass one more bolt to another bolted belay with black webbing. Expect runouts between easy climbing.

PITCH TWO: angle up and left past a painted and really hidden bolt (12' up from the belay), a fixed knifeblade, then climb under the triangle roof. Place some cams then climb up and left towards four bolts on the edge of an arete. After the bolts enjoy easy climbing up beautiful stopper cracks to a two bolt anchor. There is a mystery anchor at the rim of the top of the pitch. This may be for the ice route in the winter. The anchor for the Leisure route is up and right from this old anchor.

Location

Walk up the gully to the left of the storm mtn falls. Look for a bolt about 20' up from the gully. To descend, rap a single rope into the void and walk the slab to get back to the second pitch anchor. From here, rap to the sub anchor, then down. If you bring two ropes, you can skip the sub anchor. TIE KNOTS IN THE END OF THE ROPE WHEN DROPPING THE FIRST RAPPEL

Protection

quickdraws, a few slings, one #3 camalot. One set of BD nuts or a few finger sized pieces, and helmets.
All belays are bolted.
Thumer
SLC, UT
  5.8
Thumer   SLC, UT
  5.8
Fun route. The bolt count should probably be updated in the description. The first pitch had a 10 bolts plus, a 2 bolt sub anchor, and 2 bolts with slings to belay. On the second pitch I used a large nut and a #3 cam in the roof, and a #1 cam in the finger crack above a few more bolts. Oct 2, 2016
Brent Barghahn
SLC, UT
 
Brent Barghahn   SLC, UT
 
An awesome cruise with mostly solid rock and big exposure for the grade! A single 2 or 4 camalot protects the crux stem, plus finger size cams if you'd like to avoid an exciting but easy runout to the top anchor. No runouts otherwise, "sport" protected with the added bolts.

It seems that this page would be better placed in the Static Wall area. The ice falls name and alpine label are misleading, hard to stumble upon. Accessable and worthy of more traffic from the masses! Jun 6, 2016
Stevie Nacho
Utah
 
Stevie Nacho   Utah
 
The original descent is to rap back to the second webbing anchor on one 60 meter rope. This requires an easy pendulum. From there, two raps to the ground.
Three raps total with a single 60 meter rope. May 20, 2016
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
Fun leisurely route with great views. With the added bolts the first pitch is now well protected. I only found two bolts above the second pitch crux (which I thought was no harder than first pitch crux) but there were plenty of cam placements. Steve you may want to update the route description with regards to current bolt counts.

With a 70m you can just barely make (tie good knots in ends) it from the top to the chain anchor 2/3rds of the way up the first pitch. With a 60 you'll need to do three raps and it may be difficult to get to the webbing anchor and I would recommend replacing the webbing before rapping there. May 5, 2016
bus driver  
 
Fun route. Find it up the gulley left of transformer. Very leisurely.
1 60 m rope = sketchy transition near the end of the rope
1 70 m rope = better
2 60 m ropes = leisurely slide to your pack right off the front

This would be a great route to climb naked while a wedding is going on at the amphitheater. Jul 8, 2015
Stevie Nacho
Utah
 
Stevie Nacho   Utah
 
I went back and added four bolts to the first pitch, moved a bolt up high, and added chain to two of the three belays. I feel this route is no longer "R" and is more of a "L" for Leisurely. Rap from the top and hit the middle webbing belay if you have one rope. Rap from the top to the first chain belay if you have two ropes. The only cam needed is a #3 camalot or equivalent. Really fun leisurely route. Mar 26, 2012
cdec
SLC, UT
cdec   SLC, UT
Stevie,
Good point about the traverse. Thanks for the doing it.

Get out and climb this thing. Jul 23, 2011
Stevie Nacho
Utah
 
Stevie Nacho   Utah
 
I bolted this route roped solo. I remember being concerned with the second pitch being hard to clean while on solo. I really didn't want to have the "touching the void" situation for anybody seconding this pitch including myself during the first ascent. Thats the reason for the protection placement on the second pitch. The second pitch travels diagonally so I protected it better for the seconding climber. The first pitch is super easy and straight so I protected it less. Fun route

-TDA Jul 8, 2011
cdec
SLC, UT
cdec   SLC, UT
I climbed this for the second time today and it is really fun. I have to say that I am a bit confused by the way it was protected though. The first pitch is sparsely protected and certainly R which is fine. The climbing through the run-outs is easy enough.
What puzzles me is this. If the 1st pitch a nod to the old school, why is the second pitch is so well protected? 3 fixed pieces on easy ground before the roof, # 2 cam placement in the crack at the roof that you can still touch when clipping the first of the 4 bolts on the final bit to the chains. The 2 pitches couldn't be more opposite in how they were equipped.

This thing could be one of the BCC classics and getting a ton of traffic if, dare I say it, a bolt or two were added by the FA party. As it is now between the R rating and Mr. Garrett's comments this fantastic route isn't being climbed as much as it should and that's a shame.
Jul 8, 2011
Stevie Nacho
Utah
 
Stevie Nacho   Utah
 
Luke, you hit it head on regarding my "vision" for this route. I wanted to keep it as old school as possible. Its great to climb easy terrain yet be concerned for your life. The only section of this route that could be dangerous is the easy 5.6 at the bottom. The Leisure route will keep people on their toes and possibly able them for adventures in the desert. A definate must do.

James, Thanks for your comment on this rad route. Please go back when you aren't coming back from an injury. From what climbing I've seen you do, leads me to believe you'll send easily and really enjoy it.

Cheers my friends,

The Nacho
Previously known as TDA Nov 18, 2008
Stevie,
Way to pay respect to the old school!
Stevie hates all people, including 5.8 leaders. Ask him he will tell ya himself.
Luked
Nov 18, 2008
James Garrett
  5.8 R
James Garrett  
  5.8 R
Sorry Stevie...I really wanted to like this climb and expected to do so. It just didn't seem to be a 5.8 climb for 5.8 leaders like myself, I guess? I was coming off an injury, but I was seconding! What is with all the anchors all over the place up there? Nice climbing, though and nice movement. good find. 5.8R/almostX? Nov 17, 2008
Stevie Nacho
Utah
 
Stevie Nacho   Utah
 
WOW!
I'm really excited to see that people are enjoying this route. This line is really fun and exceptionally exciting.

Good Times,

The Nacho May 24, 2008
Bill Bones  
 
Its about time that someone in the great and mighty Wasatch see that there are great routes to be had off the beaten path. Wonderful gem and I hope it gains respect. May 23, 2008
Stevie Nacho
Utah
 
Stevie Nacho   Utah
 
The anchor on the top pitch needs larger rap rings. The rope pull would be much easier. Apr 30, 2008
Bill Bones  
 
Very cool route. I must say it was very Leisure. That Stevie Nacho sure knows how to find the good routes. Apr 21, 2008
nice work. Mar 23, 2008