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Transformer
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.3 from 71
votes
Routes in Static Wall
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All Static and No Dynamic S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Crown Jewel S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Leisure Route, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spinning in the Drain S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Transformer S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 40.62647, -111.74584 |
| FA: | Brian Smoot, Sam Carter 1994 |
| Page Views: | 1,922 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | GRK on Jun 20, 2003 · Updates |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: See details in expanded note.
Details
- Climbing at Storm Mountain is NOT CLOSED and climbers are allowed to continue to access climbing via Storm Mountain Picnic Area
- Parking in the Storm Mountain parking area requires a fee.
- Climbers are encouraged to use the Storm Mountain bathroom in order to protect our watershed.
- If climbing at or near the amphitheater in Storm Mountain (Big in Japan, Edge of Time) while the amphitheater is reserved or an event is on going, please consider climbing at other crags.
- Respect parking hours to avoid your car being gated in overnight. Gate closes at 10:00 p.m. daily
- If you did not reserve the facilities (amphitheater or picnic tables), please do not occupy or place personal items on the picnic tables.
- Please help the camp hosts keep the landscape clean.
(NOTE: these points are duplicated here from the Storm Mountain description so that they show up under the sub-areas.)
Description
A near dead-vertical face with widely spaced bolts, this enjoyable, sustained line will gradually get more difficult and thin as you near the top. Steep jugs, thin crimps, and good movement, Transformer is an interesting, thoughtful climb. Its important to mention that this route is bolted, but gear will be necessary to protect yourself from a potential ground fall. There is a great .75 camalot placement between the second and third bolt, the climbing in that section is easy, but falling before you reach the third bolt would probably be awful. That said, this can and has been climbed without gear.
A 60 meter rope will work fine, but be mindful of your ends.
Transformer is south-facing and very doable during a dry, winter day. That being said, it can be brutal in the middle of July. Beware of hornets on this climb when in season.
Protection
Eight bolts plus an anchor. You can find quite a few cam placements from a 0.3 to 3 camalot, even higher.
Location
From the field in front of Storm Mountain's amphitheater, hike all the way to the top of gully to the lookers right of Psychobabble Wall. Follow the scree to its very end. Transformer will be the tall face in front of you and begins just right of the black steak.
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