Type: Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Brian Smoot, Sam Carter 1994
Page Views: 1,544 total · 6/month
Shared By: GRK on Jun 20, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route

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A near dead-vertical face with widely spaced bolts, this enjoyable, sustained line will gradually get more difficult and thin as you near the top. Steep jugs, thin crimps, and good movement, Transformer is an interesting, thoughtful climb. Its important to mention that this route is bolted, but gear will be necessary to protect yourself from a potential ground fall. There is a great .75 camalot placement between the second and third bolt, the climbing in that section is easy, but falling before you reach the third bolt would probably be awful. That said, this can and has been climbed without gear. 

A 60 meter rope will work fine, but be mindful of your ends.

Transformer is south-facing and very doable during a dry, winter day. That being said, it can be brutal in the middle of July. Beware of hornets on this climb when in season.


Seven bolts plus an anchor. Bring at least one .75 green camalot, a red Metolius or an equivalent sized cam to protect the spacious moves between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. A .75 cam will make the route much safer and if you desire, you can find quite a few other cam placements from a 0.3 to 3 camalot even higher.


From the field in front of Storm Mountain's amphitheater, hike all the way to the top of gully to the lookers right of Psychobabble Wall. Follow the scree to its very end. Transformer will be the tall face in front of you and begins just right of the black steak.