Avg: 2.2 from 69
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Access Issue: See details in expanded note.
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A near dead-vertical face with widely spaced bolts, this enjoyable, sustained line will gradually get more difficult and thin as you near the top. Steep jugs, thin crimps, and good movement, Transformer is an interesting, thoughtful climb. Its important to mention that this route is bolted, but gear will be necessary to protect yourself from a potential ground fall. There is a great .75 camalot placement between the second and third bolt, the climbing in that section is easy, but falling before you reach the third bolt would probably be awful. That said, this can and has been climbed without gear.
A 60 meter rope will work fine, but be mindful of your ends.
Transformer is south-facing and very doable during a dry, winter day. That being said, it can be brutal in the middle of July. Beware of hornets on this climb when in season.
Seven bolts plus an anchor. Bring at least one .75 green camalot, a red Metolius or an equivalent sized cam to protect the spacious moves between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. A .75 cam will make the route much safer and if you desire, you can find quite a few other cam placements from a 0.3 to 3 camalot even higher.
From the field in front of Storm Mountain's amphitheater, hike all the way to the top of gully to the lookers right of Psychobabble Wall. Follow the scree to its very end. Transformer will be the tall face in front of you and begins just right of the black steak.
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Orem, UT
Farmington, UT
Wanship, UT
SLC, UT
Salt Lake City, UT
Salt Lake City, Utah
It probably didn't help that I worked it on a hot June afternoon in direct sunlight. Everything felt slick. Jun 16, 2012
Edit: There is now a new bolt between the second & third bolts Jun 17, 2012
Salt Lake City, UT
Sandy, UT
Ha ha. I wouldn't care either way about another bolt, but, I routinely take gear for some sport climbs too. Aug 1, 2012
Salt Lake City, UT
Salt Lake City
There will never be an answer to the question of whether a climb like this should have more bolts. The route was created in an era when mixing trad gear and bolts was relatively common. It may be worth preserving the route in its original state. However, the argument: "You should just avoid this route if it scares you," doesn't really hold up, because people may not recognize the danger until they are in it.
One extra bolt would make this 5.8 roughly as safe as most 5.12 sport routes, and I would favor such an addition. For me, one death or severe head injury would negate any romance associated with keeping the route the way it is today.
I feel this is a decision for the first ascentionists, and that the rest of us should abide by their decision, whatever it may be. No bolt wars, please.
Meanwhile, a 0.75 cam will make the route much safer between bolts #2 and #3, and you can find quite a few other cam placements (from size 0.3 to 3) higher on the route. Sep 29, 2012
Salt Lake City, UT
Salt Lake City, UT