Boy-Roca
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
| Type: | Sport, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches |
| GPS: | 41.59556, 1.83007 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 813 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Jeff Beckstrand on Nov 3, 2019 |
| Admins: | Robert Hall, Jason Halladay, David Riley |
Description
Great rock all the way. Most pitches climb manageably at a mild grade aside from the stellar 3rd pitch that can be aided reasonably.
Pitch breakdown:
1. Start high up the gulley on the southeast toe of the formation. A long moderate and runout pitch leads to a set of anchors at the base of the “trunk” of the elephant just as the wall steepens. There is one bolt below the anchor protecting the final moves. 45 m, 5.5
2. Go strait up and slightly right of the arete on great rock past three bolts to a belay at the bottom of the headwall. 25m, 5.6
3. A stout and magnificent pitch that is bolted to allow some aiding off of draws. Takes maybe 18 draws total which could be backcleaned if you have less and depending on how much assistance the follower requires. It goes free at a pumpy 10c and the overprotection and easy climbing above should encourage giving it a go free before trying to aid it. Two bolt belay. 20m, 10c.
4. Climbs past 4 or 5 bolts to a reasonably nice ledge with a two bolt belay. 15 m, 5.5.
5. Easy to the summit passing a bolt or two. Maybe 25m, 5.4.
Pitches 4 and 5 could probably be easily linked but if there are lots of parties behind you consider breaking it up and vacating the hanging belay and bottle neck at pitch 3.
Walk off on the west side. Bring your shoes.



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