Avg: 1.7 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 380 ft (115 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||C. Archibald, T. Steinbrecher, A. Constantino, D. Pike (September 2019)|
|Page Views:||414 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||Dylan Pike on Oct 3, 2019|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
This is a three (or four) pitch route which parallels Divas and Witches. It is distinct from D&W, but they are close enough that you can start on one and finish on the other or vice versa. You can avoid the PG-13 parts of HK by climbing pitches one and two of D&W, and then traversing left to join the second half of HK pitch 2. All of the route's cruxes are well protected, but there are stretches of easy (5.5) climbing with poor gear. Long slings are recommended, and if you are concerned about rope drag, it might be best to break the first two pitches (as described below) into three.
Pitch 1: Start at the staging area below P1 of Divas and Witches. Trend up and left, following the path of least resistance. Don't skip any gear placements, as they are present, but infrequent. Clip a bolt on a bulge (visible from the staging area) and climb a fun steep section on good rock. Move up onto easier terrain (belay here if you want to split the route into 4 pitches). Follow a left facing corner for another 30 feet to a sloping ledge system. Build a gear belay below the dark black roof. 5.9, 40m
Pitch 2: Pull the roof on the left or right side (right is better but requires a heads-up slab traverse. Move up blocky terrain, staying left. (If you split the route into four pitches, belay somewhere here). You are heading towards a clean slab with two bolts. Climb the clean slab (great friction), staying right at the steep bulge. Trend up towards another slab, and either climb the slab (5.9 R) or stay in the left facing corner, and then traverse left towards the steep roof. Pull the roof (good gear - save a #1 C4 for the mantle) and slab up towards a bolt and pin anchor on the left side of the low angle gully. 5.9, 40 m
Pitch 2b: Scramble up the gully (much more pleasant than the gully on D&W!) to a ledge on the left side. You may want one piece of gear for the mantle up onto the good ledge. There is a pine tree here, and you should see the crack of P3 up and left of you. 4th Class, 15 m.
Pitch 3: From the good ledge with the pine, make easy moves up and left onto a block. This will put you directly beneath the crack of P3. Place a couple small pieces of gear in the crack to the left (a 0.4/0.5 X4 offset fits perfect here) and pull into the steep crack above. Climb the juggy crack past a small tree up to a roof split by a thin hand crack. Pull this last roof and move up and right to a tree with slings. This pitch is great. 5.9, 20 m.
Descent: From the top of P3, you can lower to the chains at the top of D&W (triangular formation directly across the gully from P3 of HK) and descend that route. Alternatively, you can lower/rappel to the top of P2 of HK with a 70m rope (knot your ends!). From the top of P2 of HK, rappel to the climber's right to the three bolt anchor beneath a roof at the top of P2 of D&W. Finish descending D&W. Bring webbing/cord to replace any old tat.
You can descend Divas and Witches with a 60m rope.