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Routes in Divas and Witches Area

Divas And Witches T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C0
Sensitive Man T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Aid, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: James and Franziska Garrett, September 2006
Page Views: 1,012 total, 8/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Jun 26, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

The crux may very well be on the first pitch which is a slab interrupted by a steep blankish face section, which I recall was passed with a touch of AO.
This has since been freed via a variation by Tyler Phillips and Luke Douglas.
I enter this climb almost a year after the fact as I began to forget the details and we doubted this enjoyable route would otherwise get repeated.

Location

East Facing Wall (left side and low down as one hikes up the gully). A low angle sub gully/branch on the left will lead to a south facing slab and an ovious bolt at the beginning of the route. This is probably one of the first routes on the left (longer ones) one will encounter.

Protection

5 pitches drilled on lead with numerous bolts per pitch. Two-bolt belays after each pitch. A supplemental small additional trad rack may be useful, but the route is quite well protected with bolts. Rappel the route.

Photos

JimG
  5.10+ C0
JimG  
  5.10+ C0
Nice route in a pretty, secluded setting. Doesn't look like much from the ground, but it links up some good sections of climbing with a little bit of easy vegetated and dirty rock. I thought pitch 4 was the best. Like Ben, I couldn't make out a 5th pitch, and we looked pretty hard. James, are you sure this has a fifth pitch? Pitch 4 ends at 3 bolts on an exposed little prow of rock, and above that it is lower angle, dirty and brushy. Nice bolted belay/rap stances make for a quick trip up and down with a single 70m. I will definitely do this one again. Jul 25, 2014
Ben Folsom
  5.9 C0
Ben Folsom  
  5.9 C0
Maura and I climbed this yesterday. Didn't worry about trying to free it. Agreed that the first two pitches are the most enjoyable. (we combined the first two into one pitch with a 70m rope.) The last two pitches have sections of good climbing, but the dirt gully on pitch 3 isn't too pleasant. There is some great climbing on juggy chickenheads on pitch 4. Couldn't find a 5th pitch either, and couldn't see any rock worth climbing above the top of pitch 4. We easily rapped the route with a 70m rope, and a 60 should work fine.
Nice job finding some pretty good climbing on this chossy looking wall James. Jul 26, 2010
I liked this climb and had fun on it. I thought the first two pitches were the most enjoyable. Oct 12, 2008