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Nick Route, West Face
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British C0
Avg: 2.5 from 2
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Routes in The Trident
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Banana Hammock T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Nick Route, West Face T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C0 |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 778 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Litoris on Sep 23, 2019 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
On the West face, look for twin cracks that split a face. There is a chimney to the left and a chimney in a dihedral to the right.
Pitch 1. Start in a chimney for 15 feet. If you are uncomfortable climbing 15 feet of 5.8 chimney off the deck, bring a #6 Camalot. Then climb enjoyable twin cracks for about 50 feet. The rock starts getting chossy and the moves get harder. I placed a #0 purple Metolius TCU and took a hang then hang dogged up the next few moves. If you trust small cams on soft rock, it probably goes at 5.10-. Gain a 4th Class chimney, and go up to two old pins and a bolt, 140 feet.
Pitch 2. Go up the obvious crack that diagonals left and then diagonals right, 90 feet, good fun, 5.8+.
Rap the route. On the second rappel, if you don't want to bring two ropes, you could bring a 40 foot piece of rope and extend the anchors to the top of the twin cracks, or maybe find a bush in the chimney to rap off of.
Pitch 1. Start in a chimney for 15 feet. If you are uncomfortable climbing 15 feet of 5.8 chimney off the deck, bring a #6 Camalot. Then climb enjoyable twin cracks for about 50 feet. The rock starts getting chossy and the moves get harder. I placed a #0 purple Metolius TCU and took a hang then hang dogged up the next few moves. If you trust small cams on soft rock, it probably goes at 5.10-. Gain a 4th Class chimney, and go up to two old pins and a bolt, 140 feet.
Pitch 2. Go up the obvious crack that diagonals left and then diagonals right, 90 feet, good fun, 5.8+.
Rap the route. On the second rappel, if you don't want to bring two ropes, you could bring a 40 foot piece of rope and extend the anchors to the top of the twin cracks, or maybe find a bush in the chimney to rap off of.
Location
From the Gateway General Store, drive East 2 miles to a dirt road with a highway machinery shed. Drive up the road about a mile and park. Walk up 4 wheeler roads for about another mile. Head towards the Trident up gullies and ridges. Go around the south end of the formation to the West side. This takes about 2 hours.
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