Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Joel Irby, Dave Hoven, Evan Deis
Page Views: 1,478 total · 32/month
Shared By: Airbiscuit on Feb 10, 2015
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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This is THE line on this formation, it faces southeast and climbs excellent windgate rock for the majority of the climb with a spectacular summit pitch.

P1. This pitch is OW the whole way. Straight in stacking gets you into the corner system. Where a full body workout begins in a flared corner, climb 80' to the stopper roof above. Climb out this roof on #5 C4 Camalots (5.11, solid) and into an alcove where an OK belay can be made on a couple #6 Friends, a small cam, and a pin, +/- 110' (5.11).

P2. Climb up the squeeze a bit runout at first but fairly easy entering the squeeze (#9 VG) keeps the fall from being really bad. Squeeze to the anchor, there is not much gear on this pitch but not much is really needed, +/- 90' (5.8+). The FAs most likly combined this pitch with the 1st.

P3. Face climb past two fixed pieces (5.10) to a finger crack, and then continue up this fantastic summit pitch on excellent Wingate with mostly hands and thin hands, +/- 150' (5.10).

Both belays are solid with shinny new hardware throughout the climb. This is a very quality adventure. Props to whoever got it up, it looks like we missed it by maybe a year. Awesome that lines like this are still available in the desert if you know where to look.


Hump your ass off, & hope to find the right wash to the base. Come in from the East or West, it's about the same distance.


You could dump 5 or 6 #5 C4s on pitch one without really trying, definitely save two for the roof, singles from yellow Metolius to #6 C4 with doubles in the #1-#6 C4, maybe 6 #5s C4 for the 1st pitch, and lots of runners. Bring two ropes as both raps are 150+ feet.


Mickey Guziak
Grand Junction
Mickey Guziak   Grand Junction
It wouldn't be a bad idea to bring triples of #2 and #3 for the last pitch, I was bumping quite a lot. Nov 16, 2015
Fritz Nuffer
The Western Slope
Fritz Nuffer   The Western Slope
Stellar first pitch. I placed six #5s, an old #4, and a tight #6 (another #5, old or new, would've been better). The flared corner precludes knee jams and stacks, so be ready for some oldschool armbar thuggery.

No gear needed at the alcove belay. Head further up, further in to a bomber stance.

The VG on P2 is wholly unnecessary unless you enjoy listening to your follower suffer.

Since you rap the route, you could ditch all the big gear in the alcove before the squeeze. Nov 16, 2015
Evan Deis  
Hey. Here are our notes from the FA. Glad you guys found the route! That roof is pretty nasty huh?
We had been calling this formation The Fruit basket. There's a coffee table book that the owner of the hotel put out. He calls the formation Trident. Where did you find the brighams name?
Sorry for the rough notes. We had planned to clean them up before the write-up.

Banana Hammock
5.11, or 5.10 C1, 3P
F/A 11/2013 Joel Irby, Dave Hoven, Evan Deis
Whereabouts: The route climbs the South-east prow of the central tower of the Triton. Finding the "trailhead" is definitely a challenge. The hike begins at a dead-end road at an obvious washout. Best bet is to turn left off of the highway on the dirt road that winds behind someone's house/business/junkyard. I don't know the road number, but it's a sharp left turn (when traveling North on 141 from Gateway) a couple miles out of town. This dirt road runs alongside a creek, which it eventually crosses in a short technical section. The landscape then opens, and you'll veer slightly right. Soon thereafter you will cross a creek and then come to a split in the road with a post that has two arrows on it. Go left here and follow the road to its end at a huge washout. This is a good camp spot and the 'trailhead' for the towers.
From here hike up the wash. At .5 miles you will find a fire ring in the creek. From here continue up the creek passing an occasional cairn. At several points, you will hike around trees in the wash, and after one such tree at a sharp turn in the creek look to your left for a small tributary wash that is well cairned. This is about one "walking beer" away from the fire ring.
Continue up this small wash as it becomes larger and more defined. As the wash deepens and begins to get windy, keep your eyes peeled for a cairn on the left side, which marks the exit point. From here you are aiming for a distinct spine that descends from the center of the tower group. Once on the ridge/spine just charge upwards towards the tower until you are at a vegetated shelf 150ft below the rock. From here follow cairns left to a spot where you can scramble to the proper base of the tower.

The route ascends the South-east prow of the main tower, on the same side as the approach. The line should be fairly obvious; it’s a clean, wide crack that ascends off-width into a large chimney. For pitch 1, at the start you can stem off a large detached block on your left. It's a 190ft pitch, sustained through the first 120ft but easing up at the top. The last 70ft is mostly squeeze chimney, but don't bother saving any big gear for it. Belay off a chockstone in the crack, or extend the bolted anchors to a comfy spot (5.11 OW or 5.10 C1). Pitch 2 climbs around the corner to climber’s right, then up a short crack to a nice ledge that offers a nice gear anchor (60ft 5.9ish). Pitch 3 climbs the crack above to the summit. Watch for some loose stuff here, and enjoy the awesome climbing (120ft, 5.9ish).

For gear, I'd take triples from #4 up. We made it work with 2x #4, 2x #5 and 1x #6, but had to back clean and run out the French free section. You will not need big gear after the OW roof section.

Doubles to #3 Camalot and triples in #4 #5 Camalot sizes, #6 is optional. (Why does this say that #6 is optional? It is not.)

Descent: Double rope rap from the summit to the top of pitch one, then again to the base. Be wary of rope stickage when rapping down pitch 1. Mar 13, 2016
Grand Junction, Co
Airbiscuit   Grand Junction, Co
Brigham Peters came from Stu Green and Cam Burns, Cam did one of the other routes on it. Stu had some notes on it too from Bjiornstad. Got to admit I was a little bummed. I had been to the base of this line in 2003 for a scope. Didn't get serious about it till 11 years later. Good job, guys. We split the pitches up different, but the end result was the same. Fantastic climbing on a wild tower in a super remote setting. Done in good style, too! Props. Mar 13, 2016
Dave Hoven  
For Airbiscuit and anyone else who enjoyed this route: Evan, Joel, and I put up another line in the area just south of this tower. There is a tower formation leaning off of the North tip of the Palisade. The formation is obvious when you look from the Fruit Basket/Trident/Brigham Peters formation. The route is on the West/Southwest side of the tower, so you have to traverse around the base to the backside of the formation when approaching from the saddle. The climbing was similar in nature but I think higher quality. It also still needs a full free ascent. If you want more info, just send me a note. I'll try to get around to posting details on here before too long.

Dave May 27, 2016